My water heater is leaking around the base, and I can see that it's
rusted around the edge. It's 15 years old.
I'm looking around at prices, but does anyone know about how much I
can expect the plumber/installation to cost?
It's a 50 gallon natural gas heater.
And my house is for sale, so now I have a puddle on the basement floor
if we have a showing before it gets replaced.
On the other hand, I get to add "New water heater" to the listing. :)
Somewhere between $150 and $400 for labor.
Any reason you can't do the job? Here are the steps:
1. Turn off water.
2. Drain and remove old water heater.
3. Position new water heater.
4. Reconnect three (maybe four) pipes.
5. Turn water back on.
6. Dispose of old water heater by leaving on the curb for the urban fairies.
The above is, at most, a two hour, twenty curse-word job.
Never heard that. It's still the owners house. A home inspector for
prospective buyers might have issues if the job's done incorrectly but
assuming the home's not under contract I believe the current owner may
proceed as he sees fit. If he make changes(size, gas to electric) the
listing might need to be changed though.
220 is whimpy. 440 -- 4 hour fourty curse-word job is really something to
brag about :-)
Shit! Damn valve is frozen or doesn't shut off completely
It won't completely drain dammit! There's so much crud in the bottom of
the tank it clogged the drain.
Drop left nut trying to move half full tank.
Shit. Damn shelf I put up there is too low for new heater.
Use up all those small pieces of pipe by using couplings
If pass < 5 then
Goto step 4
Salvage some brightness by rolling to curb instead of lugging. Oops! Yard
slopes down a bit to curb. Water heater gets away and rolls into street
just as car is coming by. Car hits it and gets jacked up as water heater
wedges underneath. Hard to tell water heater parts from underbody parts
at this point.
That dropped nut now has broken teeth companions. Car owner, "Bubba the
Frig", expressed his unhappiness.
Right! In addition to the two-hour, twenty curse-words, add two (maybe
three) trips to the hardware store for flexible connectors, pipe-dope,
Teflon tape, and a pipe-wrench that will open 1/16" more than the biggest
one you've got.
It's not a complete loss, though. In ten years, when you have to replace the
water heater again, you'll already have the pipe-dope, tape, and wrench.
Oh, something else! Very important.
On the new water heater, replace the crappy plastic drain valve with a brass
one before you install.
Hint: With a black marker, write "Installed: March 2009" on the heater.
Leave room for writing the dates it was periodically drained.
Oh yes yes!! Been there on that one.
The Cu male adapter that screws into the top of the water heater and
sweats to the inlet/outlet pipe...hex part actually below the top of the
heater surface. Needed the handle offset of open end wrench to get at it.
Hmmm, try 1", too small. Try next size I have, 1 1/4", Shit! too big.
Need 1 1/8".
Unless he finds a place that sells the same brand or one made by the
same maker. AOSmith for example is sold under the Sears name.
I don't know if it was really worth it but I went to five places and
found the Sears one looked just like mine. The second time, I just
went to sears, didn't thave to run around.
Just make sure it's installed to code by whoever, including yourself.
For instance, some states require Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant
(FVIR) units with sealed burners.
In some places or cases where non FIVR is allowed, the water heater must
be like 12-18" off the floor. They actually sell a galvanized metal
table for this purpose. One could easily be make out of 2xX's if allowed.
Round here, they _all_ have to be elevated. I've never looked into the
reasoning; I just build the platforms.
Drip pans and drains and also required. Those wouldn't do much good if
they were sitting on the floor.
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