Sanding tree rings for viewing under a microscope

n on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320, 40

Have you tried 3M Wet or Dry and use turpentine? Never did it, but came to mind...

Why not try a plane? CP

ain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320,

I have only tried gator

I have thought of this but realized that it would require an excessive amount sharpening and money to be worth the effort.

ain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320,

What is turpentine used for?

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Time to get out of Lowe's. Look for the Norton 3X paper and give that a try. You might be able to get a sample pack so you don't have to invest too much in the paper.

I had some 3M 3x paper that fit the "mouse" sander. It was pretty decent stuff.

If you're doing this on a regular basis, it might be worth looking at Festool. Their sander is half of the equation, the top quality papers is the other half. Festool is a "cry once" tool, as in you only cry when you buy it but never again.

Puckdropper

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Really? Once you do the intial sharpening where the appropriate surfaces are made flat the edge only needs to be refreshed every now and again. If it takes more than 5 minutes, you've got bigger problems.

You can invest a couple grand in sharpening systems, or spend less than $100 on jigs and sandpaper. $15 extra for Leonard Lee's The Complete Guide to Sharpening.

Puckdropper

I agree with CP. In microscopy, a microtome is used to take ultra-thin slices for examination. The blades on old models were steel that had to be honed to cut-throat razor standard. Abrasives would just clog up the pores, which I would imagine you are trying to avoid. Graham

e:

grain on wood cores for viewing tree rings down to the cell. I use 220, 320 , 400, 600, 800, and 1200 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. The only problem i s that the sandpaper clogs up with wood shavings very quickly and even afte r rubbing with a rubber gum eraser, the sandpaper already feels less smooth . Is there anything wrong with my method or type of sandpaper I use? What b rand or type of sandpaper would last the longest and provide the cleanest f inish under this situation?

It keeps the sandpaper cleaner and "cuts" better than being dry.

Does the Norton 3X paper come in grits higher than 400 grit since that is all I can find.

Have no fear. While you can't just buy a cheap plane and use it out-of-the-box, a variety of useful planes are available, and a simple whetstone (maybe an angle guide, too) is all it takes to put a fine edge on it. The small amount of wood you want to remove (a few cubic centimeters) will make crumbs if your edge is too dull, shavings if it's sharp enough. And clean enough (gotta keep the sole and edge free of sap).

he-box, a variety

to remove (a few

it's sharp enough.

Agreed. A reasonable, yet not terribly expensive, plane is likely all you need. It's not that hard to hone the iron (after initial sharpening), wit h 1000, 2000, 3000 grit sand paper.

I assume your core sample is greem wood, or has some higher moisture conten t, than "typical(?) dried wood", hence that moisture is contributing to the clogging of your sand paper. If this is the case, then, yeah, 'most any s and paper will likely clog up.

As Karl mentioned, on the other thread, try a card/cabinet scraper. For th at small of surface width, a well honed (hunting, Buck, butcher's) knife bl ade can be used as a card scraper.

I don't want to sound rude, but it seems you've been dealing with this issu e for some time. Another option is to find a woodworker, with some decent hand planes, in your area, and ask for some assistance. Most woodworkers I know (as posters, here) would be happy to help, probably at no cost.

Sonny

There is a whole field of study (dendrochronology) that create and analyze cores. Why not call up the local university and ask them? Or stop by the university library and check out a book on dendrochronology and read up on how the professionals analyze cores.

I would expect that a sufficiently sharp coring tool will create a burnished surface sufficient to count the rings, no sanding required.

Almost every university uses sanpaper to surface the cores. The surface must be flat in order to count the rings; an increment borer produces a rounded surface.

-the-box, a variety

guide, too) is

nt to remove (a few

if it's sharp enough.

u need. It's not that hard to hone the iron (after initial sharpening), w ith 1000, 2000, 3000 grit sand paper.

ent, than "typical(?) dried wood", hence that moisture is contributing to t he clogging of your sand paper. If this is the case, then, yeah, 'most any sand paper will likely clog up.

that small of surface width, a well honed (hunting, Buck, butcher's) knife blade can be used as a card scraper.

sue for some time. Another option is to find a woodworker, with some dece nt hand planes, in your area, and ask for some assistance. Most woodworker s I know (as posters, here) would be happy to help, probably at no cost.

My core samples are all dry wood. None of the universities use planers but use sandpaper instead which suggests that maybe a planer would not work as well on surfacing the cores to provide a smooth enough surface to count the tree rings.

-the-box, a variety

guide, too) is

nt to remove (a few

if it's sharp enough.

u need. It's not that hard to hone the iron (after initial sharpening), w ith 1000, 2000, 3000 grit sand paper.

ent, than "typical(?) dried wood", hence that moisture is contributing to t he clogging of your sand paper. If this is the case, then, yeah, 'most any sand paper will likely clog up.

that small of surface width, a well honed (hunting, Buck, butcher's) knife blade can be used as a card scraper.

sue for some time. Another option is to find a woodworker, with some dece nt hand planes, in your area, and ask for some assistance. Most woodworker s I know (as posters, here) would be happy to help, probably at no cost.

There is an organization that uses a "core microtome" to surface cores usin g BA-50 NT cutter blades. The only problem is that they can only surface on e or two samples before the blade becomes dull and they have to replace it. Would not the same thing happen with a hand plane or is the steel of a bet ter quality?

I don't mind being rude at all. Have you actually tried any of the solutions offered here?

Seems like you have a comeback for every suggestion ... here's another:

If you haven't done so, do what academic research is supposedly about ... "experiment".

ing BA-50 NT cutter blades. The only problem is that they can only surface one or two samples before the blade becomes dull and they have to replace i t. Would not the same thing happen with a hand plane or is the steel of a b etter quality?

A sharp hand plane should do well. That's what planes are for, slicing woo d.

Those NT cutter blades are cheap. Replacing them should be no problem. Ev en surgical scalpel blades need to be changed now and then. A straight ed ged carving chisel blade or a paring chisel is (or can be) razor sharp, als o, and might be cheaper than a hand plane.

Sonny

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

There's part of your problem -- that stuff is crap. Use 3M or Norton instead, and garnet (reddish brown) or corundum (black) abrasive instead of aluminum oxide.

I wonder also how thoroughly dried the wood is. Green (wet) wood will clog any sandpaper.