Sand in glue

[George]

Think snug on all clamps, then tight. Even the quick-clamps apply enough gentle pressure to reduce creep prior to torquing the big boys.

[Dan]

On Tue 21 Jun 2005 03:45:11p, David wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I've read that someplace, and I heard somebody talk about it in a video or a TV show a long time ago, but they laughed after they said it. I thought it was joke, like telling the guy in the leaky rowboat to drill a few holes in the bottom so the water could run out.

Dan

[Lawrence Wasserman]

I've never tried it, but I have read of sprinkling a small bit of sharp sand onto a surface that has been coated with glue before the mating surface is brought into contact, to help prevent shifting of the 2 pieces. I've never seen anything about actually adding sand to the glue itself. i

One thing I have done a few times, is to put a few short brads between the pieces, then snip the heads off before clamping. If there weill be any more cutting operations after gluing you need to watch the brad placement of course.

[Lawrence Wasserman]

Sounds more like quantum theory, not glue theory.

[Duane Bozarth]

???

[Duane Bozarth]

...

I think the sand trick isn't it, myself, but guess it never hurts to "'spearmint"

The best trick I think is the very short, small brad/tack route someone else has already mentioned.

[David]

I can't remember where I read it, but it was a serious piece. Haven't been able to find a ref on line to the practice. If it isn't a common practice, I doubt I should waste my time doing a test with it (I stated yesterday I'd test it out).

Dave

Dan wrote:

[David]

Larry, I think the snipped brad idea is the quickest method for securing a number of laminations. I should have done that instead of drilling holes that really didn't fit the dowel I had on hand. Plus it would be much quicker to implement.

Dave

Lawrence Wasserman wrote:

Snip

[David]

Thanks to all the suggestions and to the good-natured comments. I think the quickest/best way to accomplish alignment for the type of piece I was assembling (9 lams) would be the "snipped brad" method. Thanks to the guys who mentioned that.

Dave

David wrote:

[Duane Bozarth]

I was thinking more on the line of alchemy... :)

[Thomas Bunetta]

DJM usually tapes things together "to prevent slippage". Tom

[Mark & Juanita]

Power tool (except for jointer or planer blades) wouldn't even notice a small brad. Not recommended practice, but something that small shouldn't adversely affect a good tablesaw blade.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

[Upscale]

Once or twice, I've inadvertently cut through a 4" nail on my tablesaw without any problem whatsoever. Never knew until I looked at the freshly cut edge and noticed a 3/16" shiny spot of metal glistening back at me. 1HP Table saw and carbide tipped blade took it without a hint complaint.

[Charlie Self]

Generally not a problem. Mild steel cuts fairly easily if therre's only a tiny bit of it. I've never hit a 4" nail--and hope I don't--but brads and staples, sure, as have most of us.

You don't want to be like a friend of mine who hit a hardened nail, though. The carbide tips zinging by made him feel like he was back in 'Nam.

[Robatoy]

Sounds logical to me. The clamping pressure will bury the few grains and stop the whole mess from sliding around. But you know how it is around here..say sand, and they're thinking a whole sandbox..mixing glue with sand, making some kind of concoction that Johnny Hart's Wizard would be proud of. ONE grain of sand. One grain... coming up:

[Duane Bozarth]

Robatoy wrote: ...

to move since the sand is in the glue film, it would be quite likely it will simply move along with it first, before it sticks. Guess if there were a flat starting point you could avoid that, but in that case you would likely be able to hold it with simply the clamping pressure anyway.

Just way I thought about it...

[Dave]

Why would U want to sprinkle sand into the joint? Sounds ridiculous to me. What I do is sprinkle saw dust from the type wood I am using into the glue joint and after it dries sand off and it hides it.

[David]

I can see you mis-understood the issue! We are talking about face gluing (esp for lams) to prevent slippage. NOT for putting sand that would run all over the edges

Dave

Dave wrote:

[Andy McArdle]

I was actually thinking along different lines, but didn't want to be too verbose. :)

The stringer I was cutting free wasn't accessible to a table saw without dismantling more than I was prepared to do.

When I was younger (and invulnerable) I used to use a small circ blade in a

4" hand-grinder to do the same job... a tricky task at the best of times. I'm amazed I still have both hands complete with all ten thumbs. ;] Thankfully I've learned since then, which is why 'twas the pull-saw that was defanged.

May it RIP, I was very fond of that particular saw... it was the first japanese style hand-tool I owned and it changed many of my methods for the better.

[Juergen Hannappel]

[...]

There is an afterlife to saws as scrapers, specialty knifes, whatever-can-be-made-out-of-thin-tool-steel, so when it no longer rips it's not yet time for it ti RIP...