Need to cut short pieces of 2x4 (12" length) with ends cut at 60 deg. angle on the flat. These will tuck up under the peak of the attic so the drywall installer can make a small soffit. Portable saw only goes to 45 deg. Same with table saw. I could stand pieces on end and slide them along the fence. Sounds dangerous. Need to do about 60 cuts. Advice appreciated.
Ivan Vegvary
Google "table saw tenon jig" and you'll see many techniques using an auxiliary fence for the table saw or a jig that rides on the table saw fence. These hold the stock upright, perpendicular to the table, in order to ride through the blade.
They are pretty easy to make and will allow you to tilt your blade to 30 degrees, giving you a 60 degree cut.
I think this is the one I patterned mine after...
Very simple, sturdy, and stable.
Do you have a bandsaw?
Very simple. I had to do the same thing when I built my shed for the rafter ends.
Clamp a straight edge 90 deg to the fence of your miter saw and then all you have to do is cut a 30 deg angle. With the 12" length of your stock it's a piece of cake.
Do you have a miter saw?
+1
All these angled chair leg top bevels were cut using your method described above ... the OP's cut is indeed a "piece of cake", relatively speaking. ;)
I have little experience at these sort of things, but I would build a "sled" having a 30-degree "ramp". Then would adjust the blade angle on someones TS until my test-cuts were a "perfect fit" (to the attic).
By the way, the rise/run of a 30-degree angle is about .577. The angle corresponding to a rise/run of .5 is about 26.57-degrees. So make the height of the "ramp" half as much as it's width, and you'll be pretty close. You could measure the angle of whatever ramp you build with a protractor, of course. Then make up the difference (to 60) with your table saw.
I welcome constructive criticism.
Bill
Let me rephrase that. I had to do the same thing when I cut the rafter ends for my shed. I would never want to give anyone the impression that I built a shed to house my rafter ends. ;-)
Actually, do you have a jigsaw?
I don't think either my miter saw or my table saw will cut 3-1/2 inches deep. Therefore a sled or miter gage solution is out. Ivan Vegvary
Your table saw wouldn't have to cut that deep, if the 2x4 is standing up on edge. The 3-1/2" dimension would be passing through the blade. The blade would be tilted at 30 degrees cutting through the 1-1/2" dimension of the 2x4. Or did I misunderstand the cut you're trying to make. You want to make a bevel cut on the end of a 2x4, not a miter cut, right?
Thanks. Bevel cut across the flat 3-1/2 inch dimension of the 2x4. I coul d pass it with the miter gage, and after all the cuts are made,flip everyth ing over for a second pass so I can go full depth. Don't need accuracy. Th is is for framing only not cabinet work. Ivan Vegvary
Well crap, you could do that with a circ saw or hand saw on a saw horse. If it's just framing, turn the 2x4 on edge, use a speed square to mark the 60degree cut line and cut with a hand saw... or hold the speed square at 60 as a guide for the circ saw. Go half way on one side and flip to finish the cut.
Before anyone else reaches for his or her calculator, for a 1.5" wide
2x4, the depth of the cut required appears to be 3".Bill
Scratch that. 1.75" from each side makes more sense.
Therefore, hire someone.
I not sure exactly what you're attempting to do but can't you just cut them square and nail them to the side of the roof rafters to give you the drywall soffit?
So, it's a RIP cut you want to make? It might be safer/easier to rip a 1x6 and glue two thicknesses together.
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