I have to fit two pieces of trim to the angle betwen the bath and the wall
on two sides . Not only do I have to cut the trim at a 45 deg angle to fit
the corner the trim has to sit at an angle so it covers a gap betwen the
wall and bath .
I have a compund mitre saw ( electric)
but am having trouble getting my head round the settings so i get the
angles I want . Obviously I dont want to waste the trim so if anyone can
give me any clues how to go about this I will practice on some scrap wood
until I get the angles right .
you will need to compound mitre them, rotate your saw 45 degrees to the
horizontal AND vertical. Then I found the easiest way was to cut the
beading in half, and hold them together (the 2 flat sides so that say if you
had quadrant beading it would make a semi circle) and chop 'em. I found
that this makes one corner, simply repeat for the rest. I can't expalin it
my mail any better...!
I don't envy you. It took my neighbour and I about 2 hours to fully suss it
out, and we managed to make several boxes of match sticks from 3m lengths
before fully sussing it...
I'd cut it by hand using an ordinary home-made wooden mitre block. The
block would need to be big enough to accommodate the trim - which you
would set in the block at its required finished angle and then simply
cut through at 45 degrees. You could seat the trim in the block,
against pins or against a lath nailed in, in order to repeat the cut
Gadgets and gizmos like compound mitre saws are often more trouble
than they are worth and tend to lead you away from simpler trad ways
of doing things.
Stuart - have you ever cut plaster ceiling coving? It's the same problem except
you're working upside down! :o) I made a special mitre box to do it and it
really does make things easy. I'm not sure if you want to bother with this for
just one or two joints, but here's what to do.
Assuming the size of your trim is <= 2" wide?, cut a piece of 12mm ply or MDF
about 9" square for the base. Next cut 4" long block of 4 x 2 planed timber
nice and square and screw it flat to the ply in one of the corners using 4
screws. Then make an accurate vertical saw cut across it at 45° on plan (from
corner to corner of the ply), down to the ply surface - this makes the cutting
Using simple trig, now work out the width of your trim in the horizontal plane
when it's at the angle you want. Then accurately screw 2 pieces of 2" x 2" on
the ply, that distance away from the 2 sides of the 4x4 block. Mitre the meeting
ends of the 2x2 before you fix them and use a saw in the slot in the 4x4 to
maintain a gap in this mitre to form the cutting guide slot in the 2x2.
You now have a bespoke mitre box. Depending which way round you place the trim
in the channel you can form either internal or external angles.
This is more or less what I meant except that an ordinary general
purpose mitre box will do as long as it is big enough to hold the work
piece. You can locate the piece with pins etc in order to replicate
the same cuts. It does not really matter if the work piece is not
exactly canted at 45 deg as long as all the pieces cut are at the
same angle. It also helps to cut things slightly oversize and you can
then work back with a block plane if necessary.
This is the method I used for compound cuts:-
Of course, when I had all the angles worked out to two decimal places
and tipped the saw over (both ways) I found that it 'clunked' into
existing detents... I think someone had been there before me.
On 23 Dec 2003 05:47:08 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (Mike Hobbs)
I should have thought of this before but round the bath at present I have
a piece of quadrant moulding to take up part of the space but the paint
keeps peeling off because of the wetness so I placed a piece of quadrant
against the mitre saw fence then put the plastic moulding against that and
that gave me the required angle and then I mitred it so it was easier than
I thought it would be .
thx guys all.
Having no succesfully cut the trim to the required angle and a damn fine
job I made of it I need to fix the trim ( plastic) to the bath and wall
and will follow it up with a thing seal of silicon.
Will silicon be sufficient to stick the trim to the bath/wall or should I
use something else .
Presumably it will be advisable to do this with a bath full of water .
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