My mitre saw is not big enough to cut a 5" crown molding . so I would like
to cut the mitres on the tablesaw , does any one have a note on the
computations of the blade angle and mitre setting so I can run the stuff
flat on the tablesaw...any help apprecaited...mjh
I might be missing something here, but it seems to me that the miter
setting would equal the CMS miter setting, and the blade tilt angle would
be the same as the CMS bevel setting. The blade is below the work rather
than above it, but I think that's the same as moving the waste to the
other (left/right) side of the blade.
I sent you a copy of a guide that I use. Hopefully your email is "real" and
you received it. If not, reply to the group with a good email (I don't
listen to mine :) and I'll send it to that one. You can obfiscate it if you
want so you don't get auto spammed.
ok....this was the easiest way for me before I upgraded to a 12" miter....
take a piece of scrap tall enough and place it against the back of your
fence on your miter clear of the motor, take another piece wide enough to
lay on the bed. Place your crown with the top down at the angle it will go
and cut as far through it as you can at a 45...or whatever angle you need
it. Take your piece to the table saw and rip off what you weren't able to
cut through....use what you have left as a guide to adjust miter gauge and
saw blade angle by referencing the flat of your ts blade. make a left and
right test cut, use a framing square to check fitting both pieces
together..tweak as needed. no math required.
Looking for a little input.
Watched an old NYW today (The station actually quit begging long
enough to show something, even if it was a couple of years old.)
Project involved serving trays which required several compound angle
cuts on T/S.
The following came to mind.
Trying to set an equal right and left hand angle to some odd ball
angle on a T/S miter gage will happen when pigs fly.
No matter how good, there will always be some error.
I can lay out very accurate angles if I use trigonometry.
So now the question.
Why not lay out odd ball angles using trig on 1/4 hardboard and then
trim to size with a straight edge and a router?
You now have a hardboard triangle with the odd ball angle that can be
used for both righ and left settings insuring they both will be the
Other than the time involved, what's wrong with the approach?
Especially if the job comes up again.
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