My mitre saw is not big enough to cut a 5" crown molding . so I would like to cut the mitres on the tablesaw , does any one have a note on the computations of the blade angle and mitre setting so I can run the stuff flat on the tablesaw...any help apprecaited...mjh
Here are a couple of calculators I've bookmarked in the event there is something you can use:
Assuming your email is correct, I just sent a copy of a PDF that describes exactly what you want.
Good Luck, Mike
I might be missing something here, but it seems to me that the miter setting would equal the CMS miter setting, and the blade tilt angle would be the same as the CMS bevel setting. The blade is below the work rather than above it, but I think that's the same as moving the waste to the other (left/right) side of the blade.
Jim
I dont think that is correct Jim ,not if you are laying the crown flat on the tablesaw and using the TS mitre angle and tilt angle ...mjh
Thanks for the info Mike . I do pride myself in being able to work this stuff out but I must admit this one got the better of me ...mjh
Ok. Would you lay the crown flat on the miter saw?
Jim
Mike,
I sent you a copy of a guide that I use. Hopefully your email is "real" and you received it. If not, reply to the group with a good email (I don't listen to mine :) and I'll send it to that one. You can obfiscate it if you want so you don't get auto spammed.
Thanks, Mike
ok....this was the easiest way for me before I upgraded to a 12" miter.... take a piece of scrap tall enough and place it against the back of your fence on your miter clear of the motor, take another piece wide enough to lay on the bed. Place your crown with the top down at the angle it will go and cut as far through it as you can at a 45...or whatever angle you need it. Take your piece to the table saw and rip off what you weren't able to cut through....use what you have left as a guide to adjust miter gauge and saw blade angle by referencing the flat of your ts blade. make a left and right test cut, use a framing square to check fitting both pieces together..tweak as needed. no math required.
Looking for a little input.
Watched an old NYW today (The station actually quit begging long enough to show something, even if it was a couple of years old.)
Project involved serving trays which required several compound angle cuts on T/S.
The following came to mind.
Trying to set an equal right and left hand angle to some odd ball angle on a T/S miter gage will happen when pigs fly.
No matter how good, there will always be some error.
I can lay out very accurate angles if I use trigonometry.
So now the question.
Why not lay out odd ball angles using trig on 1/4 hardboard and then trim to size with a straight edge and a router?
You now have a hardboard triangle with the odd ball angle that can be used for both righ and left settings insuring they both will be the same.
Next question.
Other than the time involved, what's wrong with the approach?
Especially if the job comes up again.
Lew
Nothing
Or make the template with two foldable, moveable pieces and include a protractor and use it for everything.
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