If you're speaking of "cutting" a circle rather than just routing a
blind-bottomed circular pattern into a slab, find a bandsaw and do it right,
with much less danger and effort. Circle-cutting jigs are pretty much the
same all over, so a search would turn up many.
If you're speaking of the groove, you might also consider following the edge
of a plywood template cut on that bandsaw and tacked to the middle. A nail
hole in end grain is going to close pretty nicely. A trammel hole not quite
Assuming the body of the sink will overlap the edge of the hole, all you
need to do is draw the circle, drill a hole inside the circle near the
edge, and then cut out the circle with a jig saw. Unless you have a sink
unlike others I've owned, you don't need perfection.
The slab of wood is a bit thick for jig sawing. About 4.5cm.
Could I plunge the power saw into the bottom side and cut / chisel out an
area under the sink hole area, and then ?? jig saw or ?? route the final top
Thanks for all the input.
Who would have thought that 'makers' would find the time to share thier
experience in a group on the net.
I don't think we're talking the same tool. Common jigsaw blades are about
4 inches in length and you want to cut 4.5 centimeters which is about 1.8
Here are some examples:
Note the working length column. You'll see working lengths to about 5
Just in case we are talking different tools, here's a jig saw:
Hope this helps.
While I'm thinking about it, here are a couple more tips:
1. Sinks usually come with a paper pattern for the cutout - the waste
bit. Cut out the pattern, tape it to the wood and draw a line round the
outside. Then cut to the inside of the line. You could also spray some
adhesive on the pattern, stick it to the wood and cut round it.
2. After you have cut a bit more than half the circle, make sure that the
underside of the cut portion has some support, such as a board across the
diameter clamped to the whole block. If the waste is not supported, you
risk the final inch or so breaking free rather than cutting free.
3. Please don't take offense at this, but if you let everyone know right
off What you are doing you are more likely to get to a better solution
quickly. There are several regulars here who do this for a living and
have waaay more experience than me. Something such as "I need to cut a
circular hole in 4.5cm stock for a sink, how do I do this?"
Good luck with the project and let us know how you do it and the results.
I feel really greatful for all your assistance and effort. Thanks also for
I love working with wood, and appreciate the help I find in this group.
I will take more effort to detail my ideas.
In other groups, they are not as receptive.
I sometimes get flamed for not being the brightest.
This is a great group.
You can also start your cut with the aforementioned jig, cutting mayby
1/4 or 3/8 deep, then rough cut at the OUTSIDE edge of the groove with
a bandsaw or saber saw, then use a top bearing pattern bit to finish
the edge in stages. Depends what tools and bits you have/are willing to
Though I have not used a bit extender, I don't think one would do any
good in this case. The bit extenders I've seen actually extend the Collet
for ease in bit changing in a router table or getting full use of the bit
with a fairly thick sub-base on a hand held machine. No matter the length
of the bit 'extender', the actual bit remains the same length and the
diameter of the collet of the extender is likely larger than the diameter
of the bit thus preventing extension of the bit into the stock to a depth
deeper than its length.
You don't need a bit extender. You can buy a router bit that is long
enough. Freud makes them. I am sure others do, as well. Just be sure
that the length and plunge capabilities all work out so you can start
at zero and plunge to your final required depth (about 1 3/4"). The
Freud bit that is 2 1/2" long might stick out a bit, depending on your
router, so starting the circle might be a challenge.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.