Router table plans...

Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table? I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now and I'd like to build a good one.

tnx.

Reply to
Gene
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A while ago I posted pics of the table that I designed and built. You can see it at

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you use AutoCAD, I could email you the plans.

Reply to
Al Reid

Reply to
George

snipped-for-privacy@deltasoft.com (Gene) wrote in news:wBRcd.47$ snipped-for-privacy@bcandid.telisphere.com:

Google the archives for AURT or An Ultimate Router Table. That project was great in itself, but also started a minor landslide of "well, I did mine like this" posts. Built by the fellow with Delta gray speckles on his workboots, over there by the stack of old tools documentation.

Or almost any of the better ww magazines have had articles in the past two years. The one I liked best was, unfortunately, in Woodwork, which has no online presence...

Patriarch

Reply to
patriarch

Reply to
Phisherman

IMNSHO, the best router table is one that replaces a wing on your table saw.

Think about it. The space, the stability, no need to store it away, use your rip fence, etc..

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

If you have the space a dedicated router table is the way to go IMO. The problem I have w/ it in the saw is when I route long peices - i like to support both in and out feed - Im not the tallest guy in the world so supporting the outfeed is a PITA. The good thing about a router table is stock going right to left allows good support on both sides of the bit. (Again IMO)

good luck.

BTW - norms plans are good - but if you look at it - and the others on the net for free - you can come up w/ what will work best for you.

Reply to
Rob V

Here is nice table:

http://www.r> Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?

Reply to
Pat Barber

I didn't use plans, but it's easy enough to figure it out from the pictures:

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Reply to
DJ Delorie

I am currently making Norm's router station. I am about half done. So far I find the plan to be excellent.

Dick Snyder

Reply to
Dick Snyder

Could you speed it up? Norm is waiting for you to finish it as he has a lot of work to do.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

I'm happy with my shop made version. It's simply an MDF box with a double thickness top.

I can pass along measurements if you need them, but I don't haven plans.

Why not design your own? Simply start with a table height that's best for you, and work from there. Building your own stuff from scratch can be quite rewarding.

Barry

Reply to
Ba r r y

Except for the total lack of chip collection, loss of space under the wing, and giving up the ability to leave both setups untouched.

If space is tight, it's great, otherwise, I've got the tee-shirt and bumper sticker from that place.

Barry

Reply to
Ba r r y

Well, since my rip fence is homemade, chip collection could be easily added - I haven't yet.

The space is available when I'm not routing - I don't leave the router itself there. Of course, I have to move what I store there when I put in the router.

I agree with you on the ability to leave both saw and router set up. But my space is, as you mention, tight and I don't use the router all that often.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

Don't rush. Even with a DC or vacuum connection to the fence, plenty of trash goes out the bottom, especially with large bits. With a large bit and the vacuum running, I was still able to make about a 20 foot circle of chips!

I had thought of building an MDF enclosure for underneath, but when airflow and chip removal was considered, building a whole table was just as easy.

With space at a premium, a box underneath and chip removal via the box would work for the wing. The airflow down through the box would keep the motor cool as it removed the waste.

Another reason I gave up on the wing was surface height. I'm 6'1", and a taller table is much easier on the back. My shop made table is

5 inches taller than my saw surface.

However, tight space is tight space!

Barry

Reply to
Ba r r y

My MDO box is stored under my JET belt/disc sander. It's got a bottom designed to be clamped into a Workmate, and the height to match.

Reply to
George

I built the one in FWW about Apr/May 2004, at least in a preliminary form, the bells and whistles get added later. It works great and cost me about $25-30 plus a few scrap offcuts of MDF. The most expensive part was $5 for a lump of 9mm acrylic.

Your library should have the magazine.

Barry Lennox

Reply to
Barry Lennox

Gene,

You might want to get a copy of this book:

Woodworking with the Router by: Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack ISBN: 0-7621-0227-6

It contains plans for a real nice router table, plus plans for all kinds of router table support stuff, like fences, jigs, etc. I promise that you'll learn a lot from this book.

Rob

Reply to
Rob Jones

I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's design? The web page says 36" by 26".

Reply to
Never Enough Money

Norm's table is a wee bit oversize and after having built it, I found that you will need to build your top, cause nobody makes a 36" wide top that I can find.

It would appear that 32" is the magic number, as well as the max.

I would buy the top and "then" build the bottom.

Never Enough M> I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything

Reply to
Pat Barber

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