Router table insert

[-MIKE-]

We like to make things more difficult than they actually are. I suppose it helps retailers sell us stuff, and it helps us charge people more for what we make. :-)

I made a bunch of molding for an on-site project by screwing the router directly underneath a melamine table top, and running a bit straight up to cut the hole. I screwed my fences, bit guard, hold downs, and feather boards right down to the melamine.

Very low tech and ghetto, but it produced perfect result.

And yes, I will tell you that with a couple of pattern/rabbet bits and some wood scraps, you can make a perfectly matching insert using a technique similar to this...

[MikeWhy]

The 1/4" plate will work. Just countersink some mounting screws for the router and for hold downs in the corners. Bore out a hole for the bit. The store bought plates have replaceable throat inserts for smaller diameter bits. You want to keep the plate small to minimize flexural deformation. It has to be large enough to span a hole you can slip the router through. When it's said and done, store bought plates are reasonable because few of us are equipped to accurately machine aluminum. I remember using 1/2" ply way way back in the stone ages. That'll work, too. I have an Incra plate now. It replaced a (really crappy) Rousseau plate. The Incra/Jess'em plate is simple, well engineered, nicely machined and finished, and most important, dead flat and level with the table top when installed.

It's unfortunate but easy to see why the woodworking channel is really the woodworker shopping channel, or woodworking tool/shiny new kit gnashing channel. There's alot of junk out there that complicates the simple task it does rather than solve a real problem. There is also stuff that really works. Is it any wonder that we dump on the retailers so often? They sell alot of the junk, but they also sell the good stuff, too. You'll have to decide for yourself which is which... ;) Most often, I'm bummed to realize in less than a week that I got taken yet again.

[SBH]

and/or retailers their product requires special type of care or upgrades and you'll need several accessories or if mishandled it won't work correctly, therefore, you'll need a new one...blah blah blah. All marketing ploys to make more money. One example, to be a bit off topic is the use of motorcycle helmets. It was once believed (and actually still is by many riders) if you drop your helmet, it's no longer any use. Needless to say, hogwash! You get the idea. On that note, I can't imagine an insert plate needing such special care, feature or requirements other than good strength to hold the router. I believe I know the direction I will take.

Thanks for the info about your table and the link.

[SBH]

Thanks for the input, Mike. Is the hole for the bit a major issue? In other words, why is it neccessary to have the several size hole inserts instead of one decent size hole for the largest bit? What drawbacks are present if using a straight bit, for example, within that large hole?

Thanks

[-MIKE-]

I'm not the Mike you asked, but that's never stopped me. :-) One issue is sawdust falling down into the router. I have a vac port down there, so I don't worry about it, but it might be a problem for some routers.

[MikeWhy]

I don't wish to overstate the problem, and mention it only because it's a tough problem to solve. If you might need inserts, you're almost certainly better off buying the plate at the start. How big a hole is too large? I dunno. It's the perennial problem with flatness and support. You want good solid support under the piece right at the cutter. If the gap is large enough, the wood bendy enough, or the piece just too small, you might have problems. I think you're mostly OK if the work piece is wide enough to span the uncovered opening. A skinny stick can have problems catching on the far lip if you press down on it hard enough. The remaining concerns are with dangling fingertips, but that's a personal comfort issue.

[Greg O]

That is what I use. I have two router plates, one with a smaller hole, and one with a huge hole that I use a raised panel bit in. Both plates I made myself from some scrape aluminum I got real cheap. I cut them to size with my table saw and a carbide blade, and used a hole saw to bore the holes in the center. My router table is a box built out of 3/4 MDF with a piece of scrap counter top for the work surface. I edge banded the counter top with strips of oak, and cut a 4" hole in the side of the box for my dust collector. I built a fence from 3/4" melamine and use a couple c-clamps to hold it in place. I put a door in the front so I can adjust the router, and the top just sits in place, guided with some scraps to keep it in place. I probably have $5 in the whole thing and see no reason for anything different. Greg

[Greg O]

Pretty much everyone here has a table saw, what else do you need? I cut my aluminum plates on my TS and even trim them with a VS router and carbide bit on slow speed. Greg

[MikeWhy]

For a plate with inserts, a mill drill at minimum to fly cut the surface flat; mill and bore a stepped throat hole to take the insert; cut insert rings to fit. You could scrape the plate flat by hand with common woodworking tools (although this level of Neandering is somewhat at odds with the intended use). You could also try cutting the stepped throat with the router. I don't see the point, though, since really good store bought plates don't cost all that much.

caught your other post. There's no reason that can't be made to work if you don't mind changing plates when you turn a larger cutter. With the Incra, I just stick a different insert onto the magnet that holds it down. The inserts and the blanchard ground surface are the major differences. This isn't at odds with my rant about gadgetizing and gimmickry. Some things are real tools, and bargains if you have the need they fill.

[SBH]

Awesome, Greg. Would you mind providing the dimensions of the plate you made? The aluminum you used didn't harm the TS blade or router bit after using?

Viewing the McMaster Carr site, I can purchase a 1/4" thick 12" x 10" 6061 aluminum plate for under $19.00 but not sure if this would be too big and I will also make my own fence and accessories.

Thanks

[Greg O]

Fly cut the plates? No reason to! Unless it is bent, 1/4" aluminum plate is more than flat enough for wood working. I agree that store bought plates are cheap enough, unless you get the aluminum plate for free! If you have to buy the aluminum plate, it probably is not worth making you own plates. Certainly when you consider the options that store bought plates have. Greg

[Greg O]

I am too lazy to go measure, but I built the plates just large enough to drop the router through the opening in the table. Maybe 12" x 8". the 12" x

10" would work fine. Just make sure it is a couple inches wider than the widest part of your router, (across the handles). I have cut a fair amount of aluminum with my TS and router. I will not say it is not hard on cutters or blades, but nothing excessive. Cutting out one or two plates will not do any noticeable wear on your blades. Keep in mind for cutting aluminum with a router you want a variable speed router, maybe 10,000 RPM. Any old carbide blade for the TS will work, fine tooth is better. You will need to wear safety gasses!! Both tools throw aluminum shavings that are hot and sharp! Not a real big deal but be careful!

I cut the recess in the router table top to match the plate. I left a step that the plate sits on. This is the only thing I may change and that is to just cut straight through the top, and add plates underneath, one in each corner, with a set screw to adjust the height of the plate. Greg

[Bored Borg]

On Sun, 4 Jan 2009 22:57:45 +0000, MikeWhy wrote (in article ):

I really like the look of that thing. It's the only commercial plate that I think I'd go for, bar the exchange rate/shipping problem. Anything to add to either sell me on the idea or put me off?

[MikeWhy]

Just a single nit. It comes with an eccentric cam hold down in one corner, which probably fits into their table top somehow. I use a plunge router under the table, and needed hold downs in all 4 corners. It was no big deal to drill and countersink 3 more holes.

The problem with flat is that it's flatter than the formica laminate table surface. What I thought initially were plate problems turned out to be a slightly wavy surface on the laminate, not enough to interfere with the work, but enough to feel when I go hunting around the edge. Who would've thought... I probably got careless spreading the glue under the laminate. The plate itself is very close to dead flat under a Starrett straightedge. I could shim just a bit of the corner of a cigarette rolling paper under it at a few spots. The insert levelers are pretty good also, and consistent from insert to insert. I didn't run the dial indicator over it, but the fingertips were happy with what they found.

It's not exactly a bargain at $80, but if flat is the only thing you'll settle for, this one will do. I'm happy with mine.

[SBH]

Ok, I have just one question about all of this......what are you doing with those cig rolling papers anyway?

>

[MikeWhy]

For shimming under straightedges, of course. I think I got that from a Charlesworth video. Rolling papers mic out to about 1 thousandth. 20 lb bond paper about 3 thousandths. We're not medicinally qualified in this household. ;)

[CC]

>>> I caught your other post. There's no reason that can't be made to

You should be able to find 1/4" aluminum plate in a junk yard of any size and usually sold by the pound, At least in this area as there is a lot of metal working industries here Shipyards that is, CC