I have just about compelted my first roubo workbench. I built it out of 8/4
southern red oak and it looks fairly good, plus it weights between 320 and
350lbs (3 x 26 x 72" - the top alone weights 170lbs). I have a problem
though that I need some help with.
I did not cut through mortises for the legs to attach to the top but decided
to have some fun and hand chop the 2 x 1.5 x 4" mortises in the top. The
leg shoulders were all cut at the table saw using the rip fence, so I know
they are all the same length. The legs are all seated firmly (glued and
pegged) against the top. The problem is, one leg is a bit long, which gives
me a bit of a wobble.
So the question is, how to level the (5 1/4" square) legs? I am seriously
leaning toward shimming them, probably with a high density plastic to get
the end grain of the legs up off the concrete floor. But before I go that
route, any other ideas?
I'm betting it's your floor and not the length of the leg. But that's a
One method would be to use a belt sander to take down the leg a little.
Or use a low angle hand plane if you have one.
On 6/21/2012 10:11 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:
How about this?
Prowl around some appliance outlets or maybe a scrap yard and talk to
the folks there about any junker washing machines they may have
gathering rust. If you don't want to do that, check out the local
Sears, Lowes, Home Despot, whatever, look over THEIR selection of new
appliances. What you want is the screw in metal feet from said
They are often finished off with a nice wide diameter metal foot, maybe
an inch and half or two inches in diameter with a threaded bolt that
screws into the appliance frame to level it.
If you're lucky you will get a junked set of four for free. If you're
not, you can probably get EXACTLY what you want for a price using the
parts list for that new appliance and letting your fingers do the walking.
Once you have a set, go shopping for some t-nuts. Drill an
appropriately sized hole in the center of each leg (don't you wish you'd
done this BEFORE you assembled that puppy<g>) set the t-nut and screw in
the leveler. You no longer have a wobble and each leg is now up off the
concrete and will not wick water into the leg.
If you can't find a leveler that is wide enough to suit your taste, just
make sure the shaft is at least 1/4", 3/8" would be better, and get
those. Then buy some of those furniture slider pads faced with teflon
The simplest approach is to use shim packs.
Use 1/8" (Door skin) and 1/4" plywood to cut 5-1/4" squares to form
Shim till level, then add 1/2" sheet PVC & flat head screws to hold
plastic in place.
Lew, thanks, that will at least give me the thickness I need on the two
short legs, which is on the order of 3/64 or 1/16"
As for Unquestionalby Confused, your idea would work, if the bench were
about half its weight. There is no way those feet will hold up to either
the weight or the usage of the bench.
Tiredofspam, wrestling that 300-350lbs around is a bit more than this old
man can take on. It took three of us to get it up off the top and over on
Again, lew, thanks
Another approach I've used to level out a loaded table uses some
clamps, a couple of 2x4's and a 1 ton bottle jack as follows:
Attach a 2x4 to the right side legs (front to back) with clamps about
12" above floor.
Repeat on left side.
Place bottle jack under 2x4 on right side and lift and shim as req'd.
Repeat as req'd till level.
Tip: A 1 ton bottle jack is low cost ($10 Max) and has lots of uses
Adjustable feet would be good, Deb. You could mortise out an area for
a 3/8" steel plate, drill/tap/mount it, then screw in rubber padded
feet. I got the 2515T22 nylon feet for my CNC router from McMasters
for $16, delivered. http://www.mcmaster.com/#adjustable-feet/=i370h9
All of 'em. Take your pick.
However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results.
-- Sir Winston Churchill
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