The sides of the rip fence of my Delta TS350 aren't perfectly
perpendicular to the table. Is there anything I can do about this?
There are no adjustment bolts, as the thing is welded together. Is it
reasonable to complain to Delta when the saw only cost $400?
IMHO depends on what is meant by "perfectly perpendicular"
If it is far off enough to affect the quality or precision of your
work, then sure, complain to Delta. If your talking about a few
thousandths that you measured with machinists tools, forget about it.
OTOH, if it IS bad enough to affect your work, and the saw is old or
of warranty or Delta can't or won't do anything, the usual approach is
to attach some kind of facing to the fence and square it as needed.
could just be a nice hardwood board or maybe a piece of UHMW plastic.
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - email@example.com
I don't think I have ever done anything where a perfectly square fence would
matter. Generally the wood is held to the table, not the fence. There are
exceptions, like doing a raised panel on your saw, but certainly not common.
How off is it? I have never even check mine.
If you ever cut thick material with a rabbet on the upper side against the
fence the fence not being square to the table will cause problems if you use
the fence rule to set its distance from the blade.
Yes, that's what I did. I had some thick stock up against the fence to
cut rabbets in it and that's when I noticed how imperfect it was. I
can take a picture and post in to ABPW. The gap is enough to be seen
with a square flat on the table and up against the fence.
Maybe I'm looking for squareness in something that's not expected to
I probably should have built Frank Klausz' tenon jig...that would have
kept the work square to the table.
Okay, going back through what I typed I think it could be
I do have the fence parallel to the blade and whether it's square to
the front edge of the table doesn't matter...What I'm expecting is for
the fence to point up, away from the ground, at 90 degrees to the
table. That is, if the fence extended up further, I'm expecting it's
sides to be plumb to the table (of course I'm not expecting high
(front view, expected)
....|#######| <-- fence
front edge of table
(front view, actual, exaggerated)
...\#######\ <-- fence
front edge of table
On 9 Oct 2006 08:54:28 -0700, upand_at firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Ahhhh... Depending on how bad the angle is, it's probably okay- It
basically means the scale indicator will be inaccurate with different
thicknesses of wood. It could be a problem if you're ripping
something on edge- but then I think I'd make a sub-fence that is plumb
to the table if you're going to be doing that. As long as you've got
is parallel to the blade, and the work slides freely, it shouldn't be
dangerous, just annoying.
I think there's some ambiguity about what direction the OP means.
You're talking about the vertical part of the fence not being perp. to
the tabletop, which doesn't matter as you said. Everyone else is
talking about along the horizontal part of the fence, which should be
parallel to the blade and need not be perp. to the edge of the table.
Yes. When I wrote what I did, I hadn't seen his drawing yet. I must
have this thread open for an hour or so, and by the time I had a chance
to post my response he had already put up the drawing. I responded
without refreshing the page, which would have shown the latest info.
Another question is: does the fence lean toward the blade or away from
it? If it leans toward the blade, then when/if the back end of the
blade grabs the piece, it will be carried up and could get wedged in
between the fence and spinning blade. Not good.
On 8 Oct 2006 18:48:58 -0700, upand_at email@example.com wrote:
First off, is it out of kilter in reference to the table or the blade?
If it's parallel to the blade, you've got little to complain about.
Also, my first TS was a Delta TS200, (one step down) and there was
just enough play in it to align the sucker a little manually before
clamping. It's a PITA, but if you're patient and measure from the
front and the back of the blade to the fence each time you move it,
it's servicable. I'd hope the TS300 is at least a little better, but
it's still part of the "Shopmaster" line, and the quality on that
whole line leaves a lot to be desired. On the bright side, Delta
still has a good enough reputation (increasingly undeserved as it may
be) that I was able to sell the TS200 for 75% of the list price after
two years of use in about 15 minutes- took it to a job site, and guys
were all but fighting over who got to buy it. So if you don't like it
and have another $200 or so, I'd sell or return it, and move up to the
low end of the industrial line- the difference is like night and day.
Far as complaining to Delta goes, have at it. I don't know if they
would care, but it can't hurt anything. If it was my $400, I'd
consider that enough $$$ spent to have earned the right to at least
grumble a little at someone if the product wasn't up to par- it's not
like they gave it to you for nothing at that price.
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