I have a lot of chestnut trim in my house, and the baseboards are 8-12"
high. And it's all coated with thick white paint.
While I could take the trim down and strip the paint, I'm wondering if
it'd be possible to do the following:
a) remove the trim,
b) saw off maybe 1/16" to remove the painted face, and maybe
c) resaw it thinner, and thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I can
I'm assuming the trim is 3/4" thick. I'm pretty sure it is.
Now, this seems as though it'd take a really big bandsaw, which I don't
have, and I'm not sure I can rent. Are there other methods by which one
could resaw an 8"-12" board even thinner, that are cheaper, or even
this is pretty thin to be resawing from. assuming everything goes
perfectly you might get two 1/4" pieces.
of course there are. bandsaws haven't been around since the beginning of
time (though they have been around for a pretty long time) and people
have been cutting boards in half the hard way for as long as they have
been cutting boards in half. do a search for "bowsaw" and read up on it.
then get some paint stripper and get that paint off of your trim.
That's what I was hoping for, actually. I could take the 1/4" thick
chestnut, and glue it onto a strong-but-cheaper backing, like 1/2"
plywood or oak. I'd thus double the amount of chestnut "face" I'd have.
Just did-- and the first page I found suggested a framesaw instead. It'd
be interesting if I could work up some way of keeping the saw cutting at
a semi-uniform thickness.
As for paint stripping, I did a web page on it at briansiano.com. I can
do it, and stripping a flat board is easy. But my resawing scheme would,
if successful, increase my chestnut face-area, and provide some nice
fresh chestnut face for my place. (I'm more partial to mahogany,
however, and if I could resaw _that_, boy, I could do some nice
On Wed, 18 May 2005 14:52:23 -0400, Brian Siano wrote:
There is: practice.
Also helps if you can find someone to hold the other end of the frame
resaw. Just take it slow. This kind of saw is easy to make; a little
harder to use well. (I'm at the "use" stage-- "use well" is somewhere down
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad scientist com
I'll probably see about buying an old one. But I've also been
brain-playing with some kind of mount that'd keep the thing to a roughly
uniform thickness-- say, having a guide mounted parallel to the blade,
so keep the depth of cut roughly uniform. Thing is, such a guard'd run
cross-wide to the motion of the saw.
And, given the size of the boards I'm thinking of, I'm wondering if
there's some way of running the blade horizontally-- letting the board
rest flat on a work surface, and have the blade run back and forth, like
a horizontally-mounted jigsaw. Interesting problem...
On Thu, 19 May 2005 11:26:13 -0400, Brian Siano wrote:
Oh, such ideas. You'd want two adjustable fences, one either side of the
blade. Coat 'em with slippery tape. Run 'em in slots through the
crossarms. Don't need much travel 'cuz we're only ever going to cut narrow
Buy one? You can cobble up a frame resaw from just about anything.
Bandsaw with featherboards and a fence is nice if you're a normite.
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad scientist com
I have done 8" on my table saw. It leaves a web that you can easily cut
with a handsaw.
You can also rip it, resaw it, and glue it. A lot of work, but if you want
to maximize your use without having the proper equipment....
Actually, as long as the depth of the the planer cut is more than the
thickness of the paint, the blades aren't cutting through the paint,
but lifting it from below (along w/ some wood fibers), .... no?
Stephen M wrote:
Afraid not. They'll have to pass through the layer of paint as they cut
upwards. And then there's the problem of paint clogging onto the blades,
and the creation of fine paint dust, which one wants to avoid when
there's the prospect of lead.
Right, right, cuts through on the upcut; and yes, I mentioned the lead
caution; but with the paint still adhered to a piece of wood - if the
planer cut was deep enough - I don't forsee a big "gumming" problem.
Probably also highly dependant on type and age (dried-ness) of paint.
Of course, theoretical and applied results often diverge; I guess I'll
find out first hand when I start-in on my reclaimed lumber.
Thanks for your cautions, though, Brian.
Brian Siano wrote:
It turns out you can buy a LOT of 60 grit sanding belts for the cost of a
set of planer blades. Particularly large planer blades.
Since there are all sorts of unknowns in reclaimed materials, belt sanders
of various types, with decent dust collection/filtration, are usually the
tools of choice. At least for the rough work.
The reclaimed lumber in this case isn't quite as big an unknown because
it came from my own deck (actually, just the railings). I removed all
screws/nails as I disasembled, but have bought myself the Little(?)
Wizard metal detector to double check before I put boards through the
I have probably 100-150 linear feet EACH of 4x4, 4x6, and 2x6 redwood
that I want to "refresh" for other (outdoor) projects. I did ALOT of
belt sanding w/ my 3x21 Bosch last Fall to refurbish the decking that
we left in-place (and then stained w/ some Cabot). But the stuff I
removed was "stained" by the previous owner w/ something that is more
"paint-like," meaning it had been flaking off. It was a major PITA to
sand, but yes it's doable. I just had hoped that my planer would make
MUCH quicker work of it all to give me some "like new" redwood to work
Maybe I should buy a "cheap" set of blades for the planer to do this
work? Such a thing? I haven't investigated buying blades yet, just
have the HSS blades that came installed in the General International
OK, I made a couple of bad assumptions. My fault.
Many of us use 'lunchbox style' planers, which use disposable (non-
resharpenable) blades. These are seldom HSS. But they are consumables.
Mine run maybe $30 a set, with two edges per. For what you're
describing, I have used at least $45 worth of edges. Or more.
And you can put a new edge on _your_ planer blades with any number of
easy and/or economical methods, either yourself, or professionally.
Having removed the material yourself, you have a better idea where the
metals are/were. The detector will help.
It's the paint that's abrasive, as well as the embedded grit from
weather exposure. Those are going to be what gnaws at your blades.
BUT, in your situation, I'd do exactly as you propose, after ordering a
new set of planer blades from the local sharpening shop. Because I'd be
bringing in the used ones as soon as I got the deck rails surfaced.
You now have my blessing. (tongue firmly planted in left cheek.)
Unless you WANT to buy a drum sander, that is. Then you have an excuse.
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