I usually just make the marks with whatever's handy (I keep pencils in
the shop so they're usually handy) and sand them out. I've been known to
erase the marks, though. Erasers work just as well on wood as they do
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Thanks for the ideas. I think the lead in the pencil I used was too soft,
and the pine was soft, oo. It was easy to see, but an eraser didn't remove
it all and it took more sanding than I intended. Sanding just seem to push
the lead further into the wood and spread it.
If it's taking more than a few of passes with a sander to remove the marks
then I would think you are marking
too hard (and maybe with a soft lead). I typically use No. 2B or 2HB lead
in my mechanical pencils and can remove sanding
marks in no time with the ROS. I might add, the most time spent removing
pencil marks for me, is on the first grit. I suspect this is because I'm
essentially getting the piece flat. Subsequent grits remove pencil marks
On a side note, when I am sanding, to make sure I'm hitting all the spots
evenly, I mark "squiggles" across
the work with a pencil between each grit. This way, I can make sure that
I'm hitting all spots evenly (ie. no pencil marks left anywhere).
Thanks for the answers. I guess the lead in the pencil was too soft, and the
pine was soft, too. The eraser diddn't do a good job and I had to sand more
than I wanted to, as the lead just seemed to get worked deeper into the wood
and spread a bit to the sides of the initial mark.
With softer woods you can use masking tape on the wood when possible. It
makes it easier to get a cleaner mark, and it prevent splintering in softer
woods like pine or cedar. It also makes a blind cat like me see the lines
easier on tape when I use a .3 or.5mm pencil. A cautionary note, get the
tape off as soon as you are done with it. Tape can leave a residue
especially if left too long.
"William Andersen" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
For most of my marks, things like direction to plane, part numbers, and
alignment marks I use chalk instead of pencil.
For layout lines where chalk would be too wide I use pencil but bear down
If I'm using pencil I sort of hold it so it's nearly parallel to the
surface of the wood and then the point doesn't jab in as much. This
is also helpful when marking open pored woods like red oak or really
checky wood like a lot of the jarrah/kari I see. White chalk is good
too, but for some reason I never seem to have it around.
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