Why blunt a chisel taking out wood which can be removed in a lump? I use a
jewellers piercing saw to cut back to about 2mm from the line then finish
with a chisel. The piercing saw has a much finer blade than a coping saw
and fits easily into the thin cuts made by a good dovetail saw.
Using a jeweler's saw rather than a coping saw is a good idea
since a normal coping saw blade is wider than the kerf of either
a japanese dovetail or "push saw" dovetail saw and even a
"coarse" jeweler's saw has a thinner kerf than any dovetail
And just for clarification - you don't "chop out" the waste
in the sockets - most of the material work is "split out"
- which isn't hard on sharp edges.
OH - and "leave the line". If you cut "on the line" you lose
where you should be stopping.
I just finished watching the "Dovetail A Drawer" video about 30 minutes ago.
Definitely chisel only. Across the pins/tails "baseline" then into the face
of the waste - NOT the endgrain - cutting back toward the line you just cut
starting maybe 1/4 in from the end, leaving the endmost piece "fat." Flip the
stock over and repeat from the other side. The fat piece left between the
ends of the pins or tails supports the waste until the cuts meet and the
waste drops out of the way.
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