"Luigi Zanasi" wrote:
===========================What? No solution involving epoxy? :-) Actually I agree with Doug and
Lew: carpet tape and brads or even brass screws if it lifts around the
Well, now that you ask:
Could always use a 2" chip brush and coat a 2" wide border of epoxy to
fill the checkerboard side depressions of the hard board.
When cured, would provide a smooth surface for the double sided tape
yielding a better bond thus you could save on tape by 50% by
alternating 6" long pieces of tape with 6" blank spaces.
How about attaching a small ridge of trim around the edge of the bench
that is the same height as the Masonite thickness. You could just
drop the sheet in the recessed area and lift it out for replacement or
cleaning. I have a small version of this in the top of my home made
drill press table. I left a couple of finger indents at the edges and
when it gets buggered up, I replace it.
I have this same on several work tables with 1/8" hardboard. I just
drop a few screws around the edges and a few out in the middle. I
rarely have a problem with it lifting up. I typically either clamp my
work down to the table as I work on it or whatever is sitting on the
table is heavy enough to flatten it anywhere it is "puffing" up
although I never really see it lift up anywhere even with tiny work
My benches have a 3/4" x 1-1/2" band nailed/glued to 3/4" MDF on either
side of the RAS. The banding is set 1/4" above the MDF. The tempered
hardboard was set and J-rollered with double back carpet tape. The
edges still lifted, even after a few days being weighted down. A few
brads and all is well - been fine for about 6 years. I like Lew's idea
of a thin border of epoxy on the underside of the tempered hardboard so
the tape will take better and eliminate any brads/screws.
Tempered hardboard with several coats of poly is a tough surface and
great for not having glue-ups permanently stick.
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