Redoing Cast Iron Tops

It ain't worth it, imo. Part of the "character" of a piece of equipment. If it doesn't affect the function, don't see much (any?) point.

Only way w/o affecting flatness is to remove material over the entire surface (obviously). Only really practical way to do that is w/ surface grinder which is doable but will cost what the saw is worth or more.

If you have a very bad ding that might be a hazard while feeding material you may consider filling it with one of the 'cold weld' epoxies.

Thanks, I needed a dose of reality, it will help over come my obsessive -compulsive issues so I can concentrate on developing wookworking skills. Thanks to all. David

I second that. 'Cept make sure no burr is raised up. Sand with 120-150 paper using just your finger tip. Make a small dish so a ruff edge will not catch.

David, Just hope you never have to deal with a knee mill table. :)

You didn't mention if the scratch has any raised ridges at the wall of the scratch. If it does, you should take the effort to get rid of the ridges so it doesn't scratch your wood. You can do this with careful use of a sharp mill file. Otherwise, I'm with the others - leave it alone.

You can clean your cast iron top to make it shiny again and the scratch may hardly be noticeable.

Bob

The original surface was probably Blanchard ground (mine is).

Still, not worth doing.

If the grooves are actually 1/64" deep, it's not likely he'll live long enough to get them out with hand stones and then return the top to flat. That's an art all to itself.

a large flat grinding stone, oil and a lot of work.

You could always bondo the top, then sand back down to bare metal, the bondo will fill the nicks/gouges, then paste wax the entire thing. Would be smooth and SLICK, but you could probably see the bondo so it would NOT be pretty

John

Add to that the fact you lose depth on the miter grooves, so the bar will be toot hijnk, meaning the grooves must be recut or the bar ground down.

toot hijnk=too thick

My fingers aren't awake yet.

Thanks for a lot of information to consider. Never thought about the miter groove issue if a lot of material was removed. Trying to use the best of all the information provided, I hit three areas with JB Weld (found some in my shop), sanded with 150 grit in a orbital (just a few passes) then some scotchbrite on a block to remove any surface JB Weld residue and a buff with Top Coat (I can not find my can of Johnsons paste wax I have had for 30 years anywhere--doh-). Smooth, no catches and ready to cut. You all are a great resource, I will be a woodworker yet.

David