i wood suggest end coating ( the end grain) with sealer or wax as
> wood dry's faster out the end grain, not a for sure solution but
> try. ross
Are the glued joints splitting? or the just random areas of the end
If your glue joints are splitting, my first thought would be (mainly
since I am only visualizing) that the jointed edges might not have
been perfectly straight.. and if so, maybe you had released your
clamps a bit too soon. Being such thickness, those glue joints would
need absolute dry time, and then some.
There are also other considerations that no one here could posibly
know of, like the age of your glue, the persipitation ratio in your
shop or area you live.. how dry the actual wood was at time of
gluing, etc.. Its almost impossible to really define why you had
this trouble without this knowlege. But those would be a start.
Only real fix, dependng on how severe, would be to rip the joints back
down, and make a fresh joint.
Glue failure. Your friend is blameless. The heat from his sander couldn't
soften glue through that much wood, which is a pretty good insulator, even
if he could afford the sandpaper he'd go through heating it hard.
Why did the glue fail? One suggestion given, gaps too big for clamps. If
the boards were poorly jointed, had snipe, or were squeezed real hard, they
spring back. Could be only moisture change in the wood, don't know where
you started or where you are now, but if it's significantly dryer, you may
have a bit of modest wood failure from contraction, and if you starved the
joint, might pop. Hard maple is good at that.
I agree. Using too much clamp pressure is the likely culprit. I've seen it
and have done it before myself.
I am really careful now and have switched to 100% K-Bodys, the round handle
limits the clamping pressure. As opposed to crank-type handles. They are
too easy to over-tighten.
I assume that you are saying that a glue joint failed, not that the wood
I my best guess is that you didn't do a great job at the jointer. If you
had to use clamps to pull the joint together then that is the answer. My
suggestion is take time to dry fit everything before you glue. If the
joints need more that slight pressure to come together go back to the
jointer and fix the problem.
9" is a pretty wide board to begin with and sometimes maple can be a
little brittle; I'm not sure what you mean by "pad sander" but I do't
think normal sanding would produce enough heat fast enough to cause
the cracks you describe. They sound like they are just the kind of
cracks you'd get from using lumber that wasn't dry enough. You
mentioned they were rough cut. Did the mill or lumberyard say what
type of drying they had undergone?
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