Re: questions on switching from 1/2x8 to 1/2 x 6 beveled cedar siding?

Jun 27, 2003 2 Replies

Doh. A correction on this is that it looks like I actually have 3/4 x



8 rather than 1/2 x 8 boards. All the same questions still apply, though.

thanks,



doug


I recently bought a house which is sided with 1/2 x 8 beveled cedar
> siding. The price was right and theres a ton I like about the house,
> but the siding has issues I would like to address:
>
> 1. The color is dark brown which I don't like.
> 2. I don't like the large exposure size of the 1/2 x 8 siding. In
> fact, I've discovered that that the overlap they used is about 2 inchs
> rather than the recommented 1inch, so the exposure would be even
> bigger if I were to do it right with that size.
> 3. The surfaces are rough due to all the poor paint scraping over the > years.
> 4. There are areas that appear very weathered and could use replacing.
> 5. A fullsize dormer was added some time ago and they sided it with
> shaker-style shingles.
>
> It would be a bit costly just to rip down all the siding and replace
> it with new 1/2 x 6 siding, but if I were to do that, I could attack
> all my problems at once.
>
> I was wondering a few things some folks might be able to answer: >
> 1. I noticed in the New England Area where I live, most folks have the
> smaller size boards. In fact, its very hard to find the larger 8"
> size at lumberyards, although I managed to find one. Is there are
> reason why 6" is more popular? Any advantages or disadvantages to
> each other than visual appeal?
>
> 2. What could I do with the old 1/2x8" siding I remove? Are there
> places that buy old lumber?
>
> 3. A crazy idea popped into my head in that I might be able to recycle
> my own 8" boards and turn them into 6" boards using either a planer or
> a jointer. I'm not sure the time and cost to do this would in the end
> be worth it, nor am I hugely familar with either tools or the
> magnitude of the project I'm proposing, but I'm assuming it would be
> more work than just ripping the top two inches of board? I thought if
> there was a way to "plane" the beveled side of the board, it would
> help me to remove all the layers of paint over the years. Is this a
> crazy idea? Of course I would have to buy the tools to do this, so
> both time and money are factors, but I suppose it would be possible to
> try to resell the tool on ebay when I'm finished with it.
>
> thanks in advance.
>
> Doug

4" is traditional on the clapboarded capes that defined older New England homes.

Burn it.

If you're lucky, time and moisture have loosened the nails. If you're really fortunate, the installer nailed into sheathing and not studs. Worst case, it will come off in damaged, broken pieces.

If it came off easy and you denailed it well, you might have some luck resurfacing the clean backside on a thickness planed. You'd want to build a jig to present the surface parallel to the knives. It's going to be a significant time investment (20 square of siding @ 4" coverage = 6000 lf. One planer pass, one ripping pass). A fast "suitcase" planer and a sixpack of replacable knives = $600.00 or so.

I think you'll need a six pack of something beside knives after doing this task.

Phil

Eric Ryder wrote:

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