I have one of those Cman hybrids. It was (and I think still is) the
best value out there. Not perfect by a long shot. The table has
visible low spots. Much of the tapping and threading is poorly done
and results in screws that are too tight (or in one case too loose and
needed to be upsized).
After *thoroughly* setting the saw up (which takes all day) it works
exceptionally well for what it is. I was able to get tolerances higher
than I expected for blade to miter slot parallel, blade face square to
table, and fence parallel to blade. The fence is not a Biesemeyer, but
it is a good fence within limits. I have been able to rip a consistent
width to a tolerance of a few thousandths pretty much every time I use
it. This is sufficient to edge-glue a panel, and would only require a
few passes with the jointer plane to make it really dead-on.
I use the guard. I think the reason why many people don't use them is
that is spoils the cut. After analyzing the construction of the guard
I concluded that you must place your straightedge along the fence-side
of the blade to align the guard. This has the effect of causing the
splitter to direct the cut workpiece into the fence rather than away
from it. The splitter is slightly thinner than the standard blade
kerf, so you must make a choice as to which side of the blade you
reference on. Use the fence-side.
For a very thin workpiece I don't use the guard, but then I drop in a
Delta sized zero-clearance insert. I intend to rig a splitter to it.
also for small thicknesses, avoid the guard, the workpiece could jam
beneath the splitter supports.
With the WWII (standard kerf), the saw passes the nickel test, and cuts
through maple and purpleheart quite easily.