I just gave my Powermatic 65 a good going over with WD-40 and a ROS with 220 grit paper. Looks like a million bucks. Finish up with paste wax.
Kind'a hard to say, depends on the rust, how deep it is. Wool or paper will work but start high and if it doesn't work go a little lower. The lower you go the deeper the scratch marks in the top. If you have to get down to 220 or 180 grit you may want buff out some of the scratches with finer grits.
Finish with wax and buff.
Kevin
On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 14:21:56 -0700, TD Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
That depends greatly on the saw itself
if its a Craftsman, WD-40 and a scotch-brite pad, followed by JPW.
if its a Unisaw, its a lost cause, and should be sent to me to be properly destroyed
Traves
TD wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@d-web.com:
I tried several methods, but found that the best was to use an "abrasive block". Very fast at removing the rust, doesn't damage the table, plus you can use to maintain the table in the future. You can get a set of three from Highland Hardware for $15
Here's the description from the website:
Silicon carbide abrasive mixed throughout each rubbery Rust Eraser block scrubs rust, corrosion or tarnish off any metal in a hurry and leaves a beautiful polish. The resilient consistency of the 3" x 2" x 3/4" blocks lets them mold themselves to fit contoured surfaces, and cushions so that even 60 grit won't cause deep scratches. These are the fastest, most cost- effective hand tools we know of for eliminating rust and stains on tools, rules, clamps & hardware. Set includes one each of Coarse (60 grit), Medium (120 grit) and Fine (240 grit) Rust Erasers.
I just want to say thanks for all your suggestions. Your input was very helpful. Thanks Tom
The "wipe on poly" would be so thin that you would scratch off most of the protection after one session on the saw. Cleaning the resulting mess would be too horrible for words.
Stick with TopCote and never look back...
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