In addition to all the other excellent suggestions, check the brushes in the
I replaced all extension cords in my shop with 10 ga cords years ago so I
never have to worry about what's plugged in where.
You are. PowerKraft (Wards) saws did. 20K motors with an aux routing
spindle. Not only that, had the switch in the hand grip intead of up on the
beam. Mine's still crosscutting, but I quit ripping on it when I bought
the table saw.
The described malfunction smells like capacitor or inertial switch, though,
which would indicate an induction motor.
Well I should have said, that most are induction and that ones with brushes
were an exception. I am with you on the thoughts of what may be wrong.
Motors with brushes are probably about as rare as TS with the flexible shaft
drive. They are out there but not the norm. Totally discounting however
the knot head on "Woodworking" that thinks his Sliding CMS is a RAS.
Yep, Wards used universal motors. But I have
several older fractional motors that use brushes.
Some motor types in addition to universal
motors use brushes, and bad brushes in one of my
fractional motors (1/2hp I think) produced much
the same symptom (one really messed up brush and
spring contact). Burned start switch (inertial
switch) contacts produce slow or no starting, but
once started have no effect on power.
Don't know what you are saying. If the contacts
are poor the start winding isn't energized, so it
doesn't start (without help), but once the motor
starts turning the winding is not energized if the
centrifugal mechanism is working.
Sounds to me like the saw is wired for 220 volts and you have it
connected to 110. Check with your father-in-law about the circuit he
had it connected to or if he had the same problem. It may have been
wired for 220 before he got it, expecially if he got it used.
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