Question about old sears craftsman router...

[Ken_B]

I've just acquired a Sears Craftsman model 315.174451, which doesn't come up in ANY Google Web or Groups searches or the Sears web site.

I understand how to use it, but I cannot figure out the red and white rotating bezels for setting the depth of the cut.

The white part has the depth settings starting with 1/64 - and between 1/64 and 15/64 there is a 0. That white ring rotates independently from the red part, which rides up and down on threads.

Above on the main body is a little arrow pointing down with 1/64 on it. I'm pretty certain that's a calibration guide of some sort, but it just doesn't make sense to me.

And the white ring has tabs on it which contact that 1/64 arrow, which stops the white ring rotation about 1/8 before it reaches the top of it's range. Weird!

If anyone in this group is familiar with a router that uses a similar system, I could sure use some help!

Happy New Year to all!

[Doug Miller]

Means that each tick mark is 1/64" of depth.

I used to have one very similar to that.

First, loosen the height-adjustment lock knob. Now raise or lower the router (using the red knob) until the bit is just touching the workpiece. Lock the height adjustment. Rotate the white ring until the zero is next to the pointer. Loosen the lock knob.

Now, when you raise or lower the router, that white ring turns too, and you can read the depth of cut on the scale.

Don't take those depth numbers as gospel, though. If you need a cut to be, say, *exactly* 7/64" deep, and 13/128" won't do... check it on scrap wood first.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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[Ken_B]

Now that makes sense. Thanks a lot for the reply!

[Allyn Vaughn]

I've got a Model 315.175040 that sounds similar with the adjustment rings. I can send you a copy of the pages in the manual that talks about the adjustments if you want. I agree with Doug though, if you want to make sure your bit is at the right height, use a gauge or test piece!

Allyn

[Ken_B]

I found a picture of your model, and it is quite a bit different, although probably with the same basic idea.

I think Doug's tip will do the trick for me. Thanks for the kind offer.

Ken