I am building cabinets out of quartersawn white oak and staining them
using Watco Golden Oak Danish Oil. The wood I am using is 5/4 and about
2 yrs seasoned. I am not sure of the moisture content.
I plane it to 3/4", then joint it and cut it just a hair oversize for
each piece (where appropriate). Then I sand it down with 220 grit. I
wipe down the board and apply the Watco stain, and rub it in fairly
well. It looks OK while it is still wet, but about 10 minutes later, it
starts to look 'foggy' and it blocks out a lot of the grain. I thought I
might have gotten a bad can of stain, so I bought another, and it did it
I steel wooled it and it seems a little better, but still if far from
I final coat it with Watco Clear lacquer, and it still seems like I'm
Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
whats wrong ? you are usinga pigmented stain . I would be better if you used
an unpigmented stain . if you continue to use what you have try wiping the
stain off when it is still wet ,that way you will leave the colorant in the
wood and remove the pigment which is obscuring the grain.
Even so most pigmented stains will work as I suggested ,I have used M L
Campbell stains with good results
I duplicate the "Fayetteville" finish of the L&JG Stickley line with a mix
of Behlen's Golden Oak and Hickory analine dye, followed by several coats of
shellac which can be slightly tinted with the dye stains if the color isn't
exactly what you want. Behlen's discontinued its Golden Oak, but I have
been told that Star NGR Stain Golden Oak 43-641 is the same formulation.
I have not tried fuming - I do not have the equipment or space needed in
order to feel safe with it.
You're slapping coloured goop over lovely timber, that's what.
You spent good money to get quartersawn oak - so use a finishing
method that lets it shine through. IMHO, ammonia fuming is really the
only way to go.
If you really _must_ paint it (for a stain in an oil/resin carrier is
really little more than watery paint) then go with a dye stain, not a
pigment stain. At least that way you'll preserve the relative
porosity of the oak (a prime feature of quartersawn oak).
Fine Woodworking had a good article on staining oak for the
"Craftsman" look a while ago. I still think it's a heathen process,
but at least they worked the wrinkles out for you.
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
I have had good success (especially for lighter more contemporary finishes)
on my mission pieces by using pigmented stains that have NOT BEEN STIRRED
before application. The idea is that it goes on like a dye stain but with a
minimal amount of pigment going into the grain for just the right amount of
highlight. I usually finish with three or more coats of orange shellac and
rub it out with brown wax.
The finish shown here : http://woodworkinghobby.com/html/projects_9.html
was done with Beher colonial stain and the typical three coats of orange
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
Most of us, bar the occasional purist, tend to splash various concoctions of
colored goop on our projects, including myself.
There are many variations in stains, they go from the colored transparent
stains to the opaque ones commonly known as paint . Most stains are designed
to show the grain of the wood, some more than others .In any case it depends
to a great degree how much stain one leaves on the wood and to a lesser
degree on what the finish that goes over it is.
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