It's awesome for MDF. It dries hard and sands very well. Plain old
Seal Coat also works well, but I give the nod to BIN for the white
pigment. I've also tried auto body primer, glue size, drywall
compound, and others. I always seem to go back to BIN or Seal Coat.
FWIW, we've gone around on the 'wreck a few times on what BIN is. The
latest cans I've purchased have "Shellac Base" in yellow, right on the
front of the can.
Does Zinnser lurk? <G>
It's plenty durable. High-end furniture, musical instruments, like
pianos and custom guitars, and custom cars are finished with
It involves, priming & filling, wet sanding, color coats, and clear
coats. Dewaxed shellac, like Zinnser Seal Coat, works great as a
barrier coat between products. The final coats are rubbed out to a
wet-like shine with automotive polishing compounds. This process
isn't difficult, but it is time consuming.
Lacquer dries hard, so it rubs out well. Liquid plastics and
polyurethanes build quickly, but stay soft for a long time.
Try some test boards, write your steps on the back for troubleshooting
or success duplication, and have at it!
I'll agree with your conclusion, but not how you got there. Lacquer also
requires time to cure, especially to rub to a very high sheen. Poly may take a
little longer, or much longer depending on the type. In any case, they are
both very hard. Lacquer (or shellac, also), however, will fracture much
sharper than most any poly, and will give you a higher sheen with less work.
On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 10:35:36 GMT, Ba r r y
Exposed core of MDF can sure suck up paint.
I happened to have a can of latex galvanized steel primer out for
a different project. What the heck, tried it on a small project.
Brush primed the edges. Sprayed project with rattle can paint -
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
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