I did a search in rec.woodworking for "warping" and a million results
came up. I read a couple of dozen and didn't find what I was looking
for so I'll post yet another question on "warping" and my apologoes if
it's been covered before....
I have no kiln. I have no joiner. I have no planer. All things I'd
love to have but there's a little bank account issue.
So I have my wood supllier join and plane my wood at the time of
purchase. The trouble is that my projects take so long (because I'm
slow), that the wood tends to warp while the project is in progress.
So I was wondering if finishing the wood BEFORE assembly would be a
good idea -- to keep moisture out?
Actually, I might be an idiot, well inexperienced. I just started wood
wooking and I've really only built two things. I built a built-in
bench with eight drawers in my garage and a stand-alone bench with
four cabinets, five drawers and two vises. Now I'm ready for my first
piece "for the house." I want to build en entertainment center. Don't
know what kind of wood yet -- probably maple or oak carcass with birch
veneered plywood for the cabinet panels and drawer faces.
I currently store my wood in my garage. BTW, I live in Colorado where
it's general very dry.
Oh yea, you asked dimensions. For my entertainment center, I think the
main vertical members will be about 5 feet. The horizontal members
front to back about 2. the horizontal member side to side about 5
feet. The cabinet door framing about 3 feet by 2.5 feet.
firstname.lastname@example.org (T.) wrote in message
You are asking for an impossible answer. Wood will always move when
subjected to changing conditions. Moving from a kiln to your shop is a
changing condition. Moving from your supplier to your shop is a changing
condition. Moving from your shop to the final location is a changing
condition. I buy from a local supplier that has a good reputation. The
lumber is usually 8 - 10% moisture content. I take it to my shop and if
possible (some deadlines don't permit), I sticker it and let it sit for a
few days to a week. I then rough mill it to within an 1/8" of the final
dimension. Again, I sticker it and let it sit for a few days. When it
comes time to put the project together, I mill to final thickness and
assemble within the least amount of time. This gives you the best chance
for a straight square assembly. Also, if a piece of stock wants to move, it
has to move after assembly and fight against the rest of the project. Once
it is assembled each piece of the whole project has a hard time moving
because the other pieces tend to hold it in line. If after assembly, it
behaves for a day or two in the shop, it probably will behave for the
I do this for a living, and I charge a price that allows me to let the stock
sit and acclimate. It makes for an easier project to complete and it helps
eliminate problems after delivery.
This is exactly what is needed for straight, square assemblies. When you buy
your stock rough take it home and cut it to rough length and width and
properly stack it. Then take a few pieces at a time to be milled to final
size and bring them to your shop and assemble them ASAP.
R & B ENTERPRISES
"Don't take this life too seriously.......nobody
gets out alive" (Unknown)
Remove "no" to reply
Preston that sounds impressive. However, I don't have all the
equipment you do and right now I just care about the best thing I can
do with what I've got. So my question was, if I finish my wood first,
will that solve most of the warping problem?"
I don't have a joiner or planer. When the wood gets to my home I can
basically use a table saw, router, drill, and sander. That's all.
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