predrilling for a #2 screw

[Sam the Cat]

I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop. Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws handy..

[Leon]

The trick is to use a Steel #2 to make the initial threads in the predrilled hole and then put in the brass screw.

[Dave Jackson]

Using a steel screw to thread the holes first is a good idea. You can also use a lubricant on the brass ones. Beeswax preferably, but bar soap works in a pinch. --dave

[John]

Pre drill

Then use a #2 STEEL screw to cut the threads, then remove the steel #2 and put in the brass #2

If you don't have any #2 steel screws, maybe a run to the hardware store is in order???

John

[Nova]

Have you tried applying some wax to the threads of the screws first?

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

[Dennis Johnson]

If you use a caliper on the shank of the screw, I believe you'll find that a 5/64 bit is more appropriate. Should ease the situation a lot.

[Guess who]

Why are you here? So wait until you can get some.

[patrick conroy]

Use a steel -- oh! Sorry! :)

Seriously - I think you might need to try a 3/32nd's pilot.

[John DeBoo]

Many many years ago in high school shop we were taught to take a drill bit and lay it along side the screw we wanted to pre-drill. When we could just see the bottoms of both 'V's over the thichness of the bit, we had the correct drill bit to pre-drill with. Don't know if thats a

1/16th in your case or not but its always worked for me.

Try some of the wax from a toilet bowl ring on the threads. Works great and one $1 ring will last years and years.

Grandpa John

Sam the Cat wrote:

[Joe Bobst]

Would a small machine screw tap possibly give enough relief for the wood screw?

Joe

[Roger Shoaf]

Probably not. Since the machine screw has a different thread form, turning a tap down the hole will attempt to cut the machine thread. When you attempt to follow this with the wood screw, it would be like attempting to thread a 10-24 screw into a 10-32 nut.

[Tom]

Apply a bit of soap or wax to the screw? Tom Work at your leisure!

[Sam the Cat]

Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?

Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......

[Leon]

You can get #2 and much smaller here.

[Silvan]

McFeely's stops at #4 too, looks like.

So I'd try:

• use a slightly bigger drill bit

• lubricate the threads with Johnson's paste wax; drive while still wet

How big is a #2 screw anyway? I haven't really learned screw sizes, since I usually just use the screws that come with my crap BORG hardware.

What I'm thinking is, might you not find a suitable screw in some little toy, or a computer? I can think of lots of little steel screws I've seen along the way, though I'd guess it's probably unlikely any of them have the right thread pitch for wood.

[John]

MSCDirect.com and McMaster-Carr both list #2 steel woodscrews

John

[Sam the Cat]

[ThJester99]

youre kidding me, 14.5cents for a small screw? even in stainless is ridiculous... were those 2.60 for the 3 ought?... wow... wouldnt wnat to drop those in a crack... if you used 3 or four of those in a hinge, it would be more than the hinge.. holy crap...

[Leon]

You should send you response to the internet site. Seems reasonable to me. Try finding them cheaper.

[Greg O]