...just thought I'd throw this into the mix: I have encountered an accuracy
problem having to do with the fence, I think?! Before I go on, it's lined
up fine...fence is perfectly parallel with the blade and blade is at 90
degrees. When I adjust the scale, the machine cuts perfectly up to maybe 10
inches...then my final measurement creeps up to about a 32nd at 36 inches or
so. Huh? This has been a poser for a while and I've learned to check fence
to blade to compensate, but what the heck is going on?
Are you saying your scale (the measuring tape thingy) on the
front rail is off?
If so, how do you know this? What I'm getting at is, are
you cutting using the scale from the saw and then checking
with a hand held tape? If so it could be your tape or it
could be the scale on the saw. You need to determine which
He said that once he sets it up, it cuts fine on shorter pieces - up to 10
inces, but wanders on longer pieces. At least that's what I get from his
description. In that case, I can't see anything but a fence that is not
holding well and is creeping at the front as the pressure from longer pieces
is applied to it. I'd take a hard look at the lock down on the fence.
*B space a space r space r space y
*>Could be, but you've never seen an inaccurate tape?
*Which begs the question, how do you know you have an
*accurate measuring device?
...good thought. My brother is a machinist and our conversations
about tolerances are, ah, interesting! He thinks in "tenths"
(ten-thousanths of an inch) and I get to 128th on a good day. So,
once upon a time, he gave me a state of the art set of calipers.
Since then, I've made a few mdf and some ply patterns representing
"perfect" measurements. When I need to tune the saw, or any given
measuring device I use, I use these patterns as my bench mark. Works
well, for an old framer anyhow! :O)
Some sort of standard.
My standard is my ts fence rail, as it's the hardest measuring device
in the shop to change. <G> I have a few tapes that agree with it,
but stick with one throughout a project. My favorite is a 16' "center
finding" tape I bought from Lee Valley.
I have no idea if any of them are truly accurate beyond my needs.
I don't think I've ever seen an "accurate" one .. just ones that don't read
_precisely_ the same. :)
I do have two Stanley ten footers that _agree_ with my table saw fence to
less than a 64th over 50", as best as I can actually _see_.
I wouldn't trade either for all the Starret's in the world that don't.
On Sun, 02 May 2004 12:33:55 GMT, B a r r y
*On Sun, 02 May 2004 11:56:33 GMT, "Mike Marlow"
*>He said that once he sets it up, it cuts fine on shorter pieces - up
*>inces, but wanders on longer pieces. At least that's what I get
*>description. In that case, I can't see anything but a fence that is
*>holding well and is creeping at the front as the pressure from
*>is applied to it. I'd take a hard look at the lock down on the
*Could be, but you've never seen an inaccurate tape?
...these are good replys, you guys. The info I gave does allow for
your hypothesis, Barry, although I've had the saw for 10 years and
this problem has cropped-up in the last year or so...the tape is fine,
as is the tape I make my final measurements with. I think you have a
good idea, Mike, and I'll really check out the fence. Thanks for the
help, gentlemen! cg
If I had a problem resembling this on a band saw I would blame the blade
or the tension. Is there any possibility that your blade has some
damage that causes it to "pull" to one side? You might test this idea
with a different blade -- assuming that the problem is reproducable.
I'm with you on this Mike. If he is indeed describing, as it certainly
appears, a "tapered cut", that problem is generally caused by a
misalignment, most likely blade and fence, or a fence that is
The first thing that I would check, despite what was said about being
"perfectly parallel with the blade", is to see if the back of the fence is
not toed out too far away from the blade.
Check the set screws that set the fence to blade parallelism. Mine went
south a few weeks ago and the fence would go out of parallel. I used
locktite 241 to keep them in place. You can break the screw out of the 241
if necessary in the future. The factory screws are nyloks and won't last
===============First of all MY fence is set up with about 1/32 inch offset at the
back of the fence... BUT I have no problem sawing a 8 foot 1x6 down
to a 1x 3 and having both ends of the finished piece measure 3
I keep the workpiece firmly against the fence at a point just if front
of the blade itself..I could care less how far the work piece is away
from the fence at the rear.. if everything is dead on parralel like
you say then I think you are not feeding the stock correctly...
Just a case in point.
I recently bought a Unit-T-Fence to go on my UniFence. Since it is
supposedly a slide-on replacement, I didn't bother to initially check the
alignment when I "slid" it on.
When I did, I found the toe-out at the bottom rear of this fence replacement
to be almost 3/32" ... that's about five times the recommended 1/64th
toe-out for those who subscribe to the theory.
Hell of it is, the cuts are, like yours, absolutely dead-on consistent from
one end to the other.
While I am aware of the obvious departure from normal, I have chosen to
ignore it since I firmly believe that whatever gets the results you want is
obviously correct for that particular situation.
(One of the reasons I am not too worried about it is that the strip of UHMW
could well be worn at that particular spot, or is inconsistent in thickness
throughout the length of the fence ... it's not like I am dealing with
My first guess, like the other replies, is a tape measure problem.
But, let's say that doesn't turn out to be the problem. Second guess would
be to check the front rail on your fence. If it has a bow it will affect
accuracy and squareness as you slide the fence along said rail.
One possibility that hasn't been mentioned yet is parallax; are you looking
straight down on the cursor when you set the fence? 1/32" seems like about
the right amount of error for it to be from parallax.
On 02 May 2004 16:24:04 EDT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Bob
*On Sat, 1 May 2004 22:35:48 -0700, "Charlie Groh"
*>...just thought I'd throw this into the mix: I have encountered an
*>problem having to do with the fence, I think?! Before I go on, it's
*>up fine...fence is perfectly parallel with the blade and blade is at
*>degrees. When I adjust the scale, the machine cuts perfectly up to
*>inches...then my final measurement creeps up to about a 32nd at 36
*>so. Huh? This has been a poser for a while and I've learned to
*>to blade to compensate, but what the heck is going on?*>
*One possibility that hasn't been mentioned yet is parallax; are you
*straight down on the cursor when you set the fence? 1/32" seems like
*the right amount of error for it to be from parallax.
...true, but I've messed around with that alot since learning about
the "cheek weld" in army marksman training; in order to hit the
target the same every time, you need for your eye to be in the same
place relative to the sights every time. See? Same goes for anything
re. accuracy vis-a-vis the position of your eyeball. A toughy for
sure when looking down at a hair line and a scale. So, yeah, I've
taken this factor into account. Another friend of mine mentioned the
rail, but that's out also, as I'm the only person to operate my
machine and would know about all the knocks and stuff. But in that
discussion the nylon "keepers" attached to the fence were mentioned
(this guy runs the cabinet shop for Universal Studios, the park, out
here and they have great equipment...but he deals with a lot of others
using it...you get the idea, heh.) so *that* got me to thinkin'...like
I said, the machine is 10 years old and I haven't been so easy on it,
either. I'll go through it this week and give you guys an update. cg
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