I think you could buy a whole second set of chisels and have both
angles all the time for less. I have two 1/4" chisels that I use most
often and have one at 25 and one at 30.
Mostly though I just let one get dull ;)
Every shop needs a good bench grinder. Toss the junk wheels that come with
the cheap chineese import and get two wheels a fine and a medium.
Now get yourself a wheel dresser.
The machine comes with a tool rest, and you can make a bevel guice from
With the bench grinder you are knocking down the bulk of the work, not
creating the edge. After you get close on the face of the wheel you can
cheat a little and side wheel some of the kollow grind out of the blade.
The closer you get to a sharp edge, the quicker the edge will heat up.
Since you know this, you give the blade less time and pressure as you get
closer. Dip in water often. It is really not that tough to do. If you are
worried about it buy some cold rolled steel in the approxamate size of your
chisels and practice with that.
In the US, you can set yourself up the way I described for about $160,
cheaper if you can buy a used machine. Don't skinp on the wheels.
Let me point out that in every machine shop the machinists quickly learn to
sharpen their drill bits by hand on bench grinders, and that tool steel is
not much different than your chisel.
Once you are almost there consider the diamond wetstones that are out there.
They are now cheaper than ever and they do not tend to get concave like
regular stones. They will quickly take the blade to the correct geometry
for the final keen edge to be given so you can go back to shaping the wood.
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
OK, 1 in 24. The shop that I work in now, ther is one other besides me that
can grind a tool by hand. The last shop, I was the only one. I have worked
in 100 man shops around here and you could count on one hand the number of
people that could grind there own tools.
So twist drills have various tip angles for various materials; Wood,
non-ferrous metals, hardened steel, whatever. Someone worked out that
the angles (118 degrees, for example) were the "best" in some sense.
Efficiency of drilling, drill life, clean cut, I dunno.
My question is, just for grins, would you sharpen a bunch of drills for
us and measure the variance in grinding angle among them? I'm guessing
you'd get a bell curve around the optimum. Have one of your workmates
who "can't" do it by hand do a bunch and then measure the variance of
his batch. Ugh, sloppy, right? But, how close would a reasonably
competent machine-shop dude come to "good-enough"?
When I started in a machine shop I got probably close to 100# of dull
bits to sharpen. My instructions were to come get the boss when I felt
confident about that part. 3-4 hours later he handed me a bushel or so
of mixed nuts and machine screws to sort.
Ahhh ... those were the days! ;-)
Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one
rascal less in the world.
Do you know how durable diamond stones are generally? I had a very concave
50+ yr. old sharpening stone from my Dad, out of sentiment more than need I
went to great lengths to flattened it.....In the process I seem to have
removed the diamond particles from a coarse diamond stone....I also did a
number on a 10inch sanding disk and 4inch sanding belt etc.....Obviously the
old stone now probably 1/2 original (when new) thickness "wins" on durable
except for the former concave part...Dad mostly used it for decades to do
his pocket knife..........Also is there any way to determine if a "old"
stone is a water stone or a oil stone? He generally used oil. Or what grit a
old stone might be? Rod
On Sat, 17 Feb 2007 18:54:19 -0800, "Rod & Betty Jo"
Are you sure that you "removed the diamond particles"? Diamond stones
go through a "wearing in" process.
If it's an old stone and not from Japan or that vicinity then it's
almost certainly an oilstone, might be an Arkansas stone or a
Carborundum synthetic. Arkansas doesn't have a "grit" per se, it
comes Washita, soft, hard, surgical hard in order of fineness. Can't
really tell Washita, soft, or hard from looking at them, surgical hard
will usually be black or translucent.
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