My 4.5amp SKIL 3/8" keyless-chuck drill burned-up last night while I
was trying to drill some 3/16" holes in masonry. (Yes... I was using a
masonry bit). The drill is about two years old, but I only use it on
weekends -- and usually only on soft wood. I'll be doing more work
this year, though, and I'd like something that is heavy-duty-enough to
handle work in hardwoods and soft metals -- with the occasional
excursion into masonry and thin steel. My thanks for your
Get a 1/2 inch drill for heavy duty stuff Get GOOD 3/8 inch drills,
and avoid the really cheap stuff at places like HD or Lowes no matter
what the amp rating
3/8 inch is lighter in weight and the low end 3/8 drills just are not
up to drilling masonry. My PC 3/8 is also rated at 4.5a but my 1/2
Milwaukee is rated at 7.5a
On 5 Jan 2004 19:16:43 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (hdmundt) wrote:
Makita makes a 1/2" hammer-drill for about $90 available at home centers.
If overloaded and damaged, it's not worth repairing.
However, it's fairly light, can be switched between hammer and drill mode,
and comes with a plastic case.
I recently used it to substitute for a 7/8" rotary hammer when it conked out
on a job.
You really need a "hammer" drill if you are going to do much
masonry drilling since that is how the bits are designed to work.
I have done my share of hole drilling without the hammer drill (up to
but burned out a lot of bits. I now have a Milwaukee 3/8" drill that can
switch from hammer drill mode to non-hammer mode and it works soooo much
I expect I have more than saved the extra cost for the hammer option by
buying and burning as many bits. It's up to you to decide the economy of
burned bits versus the hammer option. Quality drills are all over $100
but it's one of those cry once now or cry later when you have to replace
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