If you use twisted pair for your phone line it won't be bothered by the power.
That is also true of CAT5 and LANs. The design on a NIC rejects virtually all
"common mode" noise. If telephone lines were bothered by 60hz they certainly
wouldn't be putting it on poles next to fat transformers and 13kv cables. The
secret is twisted pair tho. Straight through (red,green,yellow,black) will pick
up everything from adjacent phone line crosstalk to your local radio station.
As for the EGC (ground) the other posters are on point, #10 minimum and you
want #8 min to a ground rod. Anything smaller than #4 requires physical
False. Ground wire size depends on the rating of the overcurrent protection
device, and is specified by Table 290-95. [NEC, Article 290-95]
False. This is _explicitly_prohibited_ by the NEC: "Communications conductors
shall not be placed in any raceway, compartment, junction box, or similar
fitting with conductors of electric light or power circuits..." [NEC, Article
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
The only way you can run LV and line voltage in the same conduit is if one of
them is in another raceway inside that big one (usually the LV). This is pretty
common when you have duct banks between buildings but not that practical for
residential or anything you are building to a spec. The duct has to be pretty
big to accomodate a raceway plus whatever conductors you run.
I thought I asked the inspector if it was permissible, I thought he said
yes with 600 volt insulation.
I guess I should ask again.
I guess all those lighting conductors I ran in the conduit with
communications conductors are now going to be low voltage operating relays.
The current NEC does not permit it, and I think that has been
true for a long time, as long as I can remember, but *local*
code does not always follow the NEC. And local inspectors may
interpret the code differently than you might think. It almost
never causes a problem to use a safer practice than the local
inspector requires, but I would never try to convince him/her to
let me squeak by on something.
I really hope you mean this.
You must have a separate, full sized neutral, and a ground. The neutral and
ground must have separate busses, and the neutral buss must be separate and
insulated from the case of the breaker housing. One of the busses is
probably already insulated, and has to be grounded, if need be, with a
Got it. I bought one of the GE consumer main lug boxes and purchased a
separate ground bus that bolts straight to the case.
Whew! Its a good thing my labor is free. I started down this quest because
just adding branch breakers to my existing panel was so darned expensive
(no-longer manufactured Federal Pacific). It was cheaper to add one big
breaker in it to feed the subpanel. I like the idea of paying $8 for a dual
20 amp breaker instead of $48!
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