A friend of mine restores old motorcycles.
He long ago taught me to paint.
A friend of his brought over some Indasa Redline Rhynowet sandpaper 600
My friend is a die hard 3M guy. He just hates to deal with inferior
He's said it far surpassed 3m. It cut easily, without clogging, and lasted.
He's going to try the 2500 for buffing out the final coat. I'll let you
know what I hear.
Has anyone used this? Seems like an option for someone needing a super
gloss finish, possibly on a veneered project.
I have never heard of it but there seems to be a new breed of sand
papers showing up these days, especially those that do not clog.
As I have mentioned before the Granat made by Festool lasts and lasts
and lasts....but only goes to 1500 grit in certain sizes.
On Tuesday, March 15, 2016 at 9:19:12 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
Leon - is that Granat paper stearated? I found this,
(I had NO idea that Festool was so far into specialty abrasives) and even o
n FOG, I can't find out any info about its chemical treatment or bonding.
But looking at that chart, it doesn't show the Granat as a recommended prod
uct for wood sanding. If it works, it works, but when I do a kitchen I use
a lot of paper when I am refinishing the cabinets. I am ALWAYS ready for
a better solution.
Finding the Festool papers on Amazon, they aren't much more than my favorit
e Mirka gold papers. The difference of proce over a few jobs, nothing. I K
NOW the Mirkas are stearated, but I really prefer papers that aren't, espec
ially when sanding non wood surfaces.
On 3/16/2016 12:25 AM, email@example.com wrote:
I cannot say for sure?
Does this help at all?
Granat is our most long-lasting and highest performing abrasive and is
well suited for nearly all applications, including bare wood, paints,
most modern paint systems, VOC clear coats, plastic materials, solid
surface materials, acrylics, and composites. Hardened Aluminum Oxide,
Synthetic Resin, Closed Coated.
On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 8:38:42 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
Most likely some kind of non clogging agent. When they are "coated" it is
usually a stearate of some kind.
If you don't push them too hard, stearated papers work just fine on bare wo
od, and even wood with light coats of thin finish like the factory lacquer
coat on factory made cabinets.
Not good on varnish, paint, heavy coats of anything else.
Some of the heavily coated papers you can actually see the stearates and th
e coatings mix together and stick in small clumps on sandpaper when using a
powered sander. Most people don't realize that the hard dots of resinous
material that either stick to sandpaper or has to be picked off one at a ti
me is usually at least in part coating from the paper.
On 3/16/2016 11:44 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I guess my next question is what do you want the paper to do on painted
surfaces, prep for the next coat or remove the finish.
I Originally bought some Crystal "Festool" paper to remove the paint
from a BBQ. I found that it worked to remove a finish from something I
was working on and did not clog. Fast Forward to the last year or so
and I gave the Granat a try. I found that it performed better than the
I put a piece of 120 grit Granat on my Rotex sander and did all of the
preliminary sanding of the joints and glue ooz out and the paper did not
clog. I actually sanded the whole project, the TV entertainment center
that I built in November with "that piece" including removing the
stained and varnished top, I was not happy with the results of the stain.
With that same piece of paper I sanded the night stands that I built in
February. So it holds up very well from removing glue residue and quite
well removing the stain and Old Masters varnish once it had dried.
It did clog on a neighbors "Mexico built" end table where the finish,
probably dissolved tar, never really cured.
On 03/16/2016 12:25 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Only specific paper I see mentioned by Festool as stearated is the
Vlies with SiCarbide but some of the others mention "special coating" or
other similar words.
I'd send 'em an inquiry if concerned regarding possibility of fisheye in
prospective finish (which is, I presume the reason for the query).
I've not used any of their abrasives; I've used almost all Mirka since
the barn rework as we sanded it entirely to try to make paint stick
after 50+ yr of weather and after going through all the common
alternative suppliers the Gold did perform better than virtually
I've still a lot of Klingspoor product for belts...they build best there
is there imo but I've discovered that unfortunately their adhesive
doesn't have a long shelf life (which they've agreed with but have no
solution nor recourse). If you're not going to use 'em inside six
months, I'd recommend buying only what you'll use for them altho know
that's outside the subject just thought I'd throw it in...
On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 9:19:32 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
That and the fact that the hardened dots of coating on paper mixed with bit
s of paint/wood resin/clear coat leaves a less than acceptable finish. The
low melting point of the stearates can also mix with the wood dust in some
instances and do the same thing, which is an addition to the already probl
ematic stearates left behind which indeed can cause fisheyes in your finish
. And resands. And refinishes.
Like I said in an earlier post, they are my top choice. Although for heavy
industrial grinding, I like some of the new Bosch papers in the 60 and 80
I agree completely with those comments. I was sold a Klingspor years ago a
s at that time Woodcraft championed them as the perfect paper. All the cab
inet guys around here changed to Klingspor and I still see the Klingspor tr
uck from the distributor around here from time to time.
But when I was buying their product I was doing a LOT of finishing/refinish
ing, so I was buying 250 disks at a time. I bought from a discounter and h
e had "deals" on Mirka, Klingspor, 3M and another Canadian made paper. Whe
n though with a job, the sander, paper and N95 masks go into a tote out in
the hot shop until further use. The Klingspor actually had grit flaking of
f on the papers that were about a year old (seen two summers in the tote) a
nd the others were fine.
I settled on Mirka as it didn't load, got good life out of it, and cut clea
nly. Also, my sanders like the size of fuzz they put on their papers. And
of course, delivered to door as needed in two days on Amazon Prime.
On 3/16/2016 11:59 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
OK, if that is what you are wanting to avoid, the little specks of
finish or glue that stick onto the sand paper, the Granat does not get
loaded with those dots whether sanding cured varnish or dried glue. The
paper appears to remain as clean as it was straight out of the box.
I very likely sanded for an hour, glue joints and a 2 day old stained
and varnished finish, with a single piece of 120 grit. The paper only
looked a little tattered around the edges.
The low melting point of the stearates can also
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