Howdy. My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop, and I am a new
member cuz my kitchen drawers are falling apart and I need to learn
how to fix them. Since the entire house (mfd home) is fiberboard and
long abuse by my late mother has it falling apart, it's time to learn
some decent cabinetry.
I know jes enough about general carpentry that I'm totally fearless.
Spent 8 mos framing houses. Boy, can I ever neaten up a lumber pile!
Plus, as a former machinist and my late brother having been a master
carpenter, I've already got a lot of those tools.
Anyway, already discovered some joinery (dove, box, biscuit, etc) and
learned which tools my buddy already has (biscuit jointer, router)
....and which I need to buy (router table, dovetail jig, etc).
I can see me doing a new face frame and drawers outta (Baltic?) birch
and some other cabinetry stuff. Looks like big fun. I'm looking
forward to posting, here. If I get good enough, might try a guitar
spkr cabinet with all dovetail joinery, like I usta have (mesa boogie
If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.
I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
--benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?
I've so much to learn. ;)
The main thing the lift gives you is precise control of the protrusion
of the bit above the table using a control that you access from above
the table. There are some routers now that have the same sort of
capability built-in or easily addable.
On Sunday, March 13, 2016 at 12:40:42 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
Where have you been looking?
A simple Google search of _DIY router table_ returns a ridiculous number of hits.
Just as an example, one such hit...
...leads to this...
There are probably hundreds of plans to choose from on ye ole interweb.
Oh man - let google be your friend. Do a simple search - there is a ton
of stuff out there for DIY plans, including lifts and all the other
stuff. In fact, that may well be one of the biggest hits on DIY
No, you don't do plunge cuts on a router table. If you need to
start in the middle of a piece, there's three ways to do it:
1 - use your plunge router in it's normal hand-held manner.
Clamp straightedges to your workpiece as needed to guide
the router (I keep an assortment of longish scraps with
straight edges for that purpose).
2 - with the router in the table, running, and your workpiece
held at an angle above the table, butted up against a stop,
carefully lower it onto the bit and then make your cut.
Myself I consider this a dangerous technique and don't do
it, but I've seen others do so.
3 - drill a starter hole a hair larger than the router bit,
and with the router in the table put the workpiece over the
bit, turn the router on and make the cut. This is how I do
it to make stopped grooves and similar cuts. (*)
The purpose of the lift is simply to make it easy to adjust
the bit height when the router is in the table. Particularly
if it's a plunge router, the normal depth adjustment is hard
to use in a table.
Gotta start somewhere, and this is (usually) a good place.
(* note that a lot of times it's simpler to make a thru groove,
and then plug the ends with scrap stock cut to the groove's
I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.
On a different note I used a 4 flute HSS end mill bit and it lasted 5~10
times longer than any carbide bits plus it cut much more smoothly when
lowering the work.
If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
sled's fence to make the groove.
I've seen pictures of a rig like that used to make tenons
for chair slats.
I've seen a buncha U2B videos on routers and they look like a hoot!
I really like the router table lift kits.
I've seen "sleds" fer table saws, but have no clue as to yer
"horizontally" mounted, sliding sled, router. ;)
Basically it was 200~300 slots at a time every 2~4 months for about 4
years and that was it. It actually went pretty quickly, 4~6 hours on
the slots for each run. But there was the resawing, planing, cutting to
width and length and cutting a 45 on one end. Tough on the fingers
holding that wood, 3 times harder than oak and the edges were sharp.
Beautiful table and thank you for the link.
Unfortunately, I do not have that kinda $$$$ and prolly will not be
bying any of that stuff (too much plastic). Oh, I have plenty of dial
indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?
Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
Yes. The first joint I researched is the pocket-hole joint. I also
have a fiberboard face frame cross-piece (15"x1-5/8"x9/16") that
ripped out cuz the pkt-hls failed for the usual fiberboard reasons. I
kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
makes to do the job. Anyone have any experience with the all-metal HF
Our local cabinetry shop, which got me started down this seemingly
endless road, makes its drawer boxes with baltic birch (ply), using
biscuit joints. Is there a cheaper alternative to BB ply?
I have to replace the drawers, one at a time. I figure I'll use 1/2"
b.birch fer the box and use a different joint (biz, box, dove, etc)
with each drawer, depending on which tools --and how many clamps!-- I
have access to, at that time. When I have the tools and knowledge,
I'll attempt the full face frame and countertop.
Now, I need to replace all the decayed rubber parts on my B&D
Workbench 225. Boy, did that thing ever fall apart, suddenly. Oh
yeah ....and replace those crappy fiberboard slats (work-top?) before
they go south! ;)
On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 11:41:27 AM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
Speaking of pocket holes and biscuits, I used my Kreg jig to mock
up a 5/4" x 8" x 38" square frame for the pot rack I'm making. Once
it had SWMBO's approval, I took out the screws and used 4 biscuits
at each joint, clamping the frame while the glue dried. Just before
I walked away I looked down on the table and saw the screws lying
there. Then I looked at the pocket holes in the frame.
I paused, I hesitated, I tried to walk away. I just couldn't do it.
Back in went the screws. 4 biscuits and 2 pocket screws per joint.
The wall will come down before this thing falls apart. ;-)
Too bad. Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic
AAMOF, I gave my old metal K2 of yore away because it did not allow use
of dust collection to keep the holes clear ... a real PITA with the old
K2 when production cutting a kitchen full of face frames.
Built literally thousands of FF's using the newer Kreg with nary a problem.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.