Do any of you know of a "primer" on designing a project with pocket doors?
I have a friend that wants a corner entertainment center that would need
I've never designed a piece or installed a set of pocket doors and am having
a bit of trouble wrapping my brain around it to get a proper design. I know
that there are bugaboos, but I'd rather have them dawn on me now instead of
during glue up... hehhehe...
Also, since the cabinet is roughly triangular (in the top view) what would
you suggest for panel joinery. For a typical carcass, I would use dados and
fixed shelves, but with the "triangle" section hanging off of the back, I am
wondering if I should go with an internal frame and then attach the ply to
that. If so, I guess I could go with thinner ply for weight savings...
Comments, remarks, leads???
I don't think you mean "pocket" doors. A traditional pocket door is a
door between rooms that _slides_ into a hole (the 'pocket') in the wall
it is in-line with.
Obviously, this requires at least as much 'blank wall' beside the door,
as the door opening is wide.
I'm guessing you mean "flipper" doors -- like for in front of a TV.
where the doors swing open to 90 degrees, and then 'push back' into the
cabinet to get 'out of the way'.
For 'flipper' doors, "design" is pretty much a non-issue. There's standard
hardware (available from any of the usual suspects) for the job. Most of em
are designed to support a 90-degree rotate and _then_ slide, so they may have
to slide 'perpendicular' to the diagonal face, rather than against the 'sides'
of the cabinet.
There's also standard hardware for _full-size_ pocket doors -- it's an overhead
track system, from which the door is suspended. Full kits available at the
various BORG, for circa $50 -- for a door up to 36 in wide, including the
track, hanger hardware, and the 'split studs' needed to build the pocket into
the wall. The kits _do_ "assume" you're building the door _into_a_wall_, and
that the wall is 2x4 construction. (Note: I had an "interesting" time fitting
one of the kits into a wall that was 2x6 construction. :)
Possibly use full thickness stock for the back panels as well as the 'sides',
and dado into the back as well.
Keep in mind that TV's, especially big ones, are _heavy_. you'll probably
want to add additional bracing under whatever holds up the TV.
You can fit the doors to virtually any height and depth of cabinet. You
have to be aware of side clearances. Generally, allow about 1 1/2" to 1
3/4" on each side for door and hardware clearance. Check the manufactures
specs for exact clearances. With these clearances, the door is exposed to
the inside of the cabinet, so shelves can't be used. If you want interior
shelves, or you want to hide the door, you need to add a bulkhead so that
the door slides in the cabinet in between the side of the cabinet and the
bulkhead. That adds another inch per side required for clearance, but you
can now put shelves on the inside. Also, size the hardware or put stops in
so the door doesn't go all the way in. You need to leave a couple of inches
protruding for door hardware.
I am sure hardware manufactures give application instructions online. Here
is Blum's. This is the one I use.
http://www.blum.com/webv2.nsf/graphics/US_PDF /$file/7007_POC_B.pdf .
Also, the hardware is designed for inset doors. If you want overlay doors,
you have to cut a slot in the upper and lower rails on the hinge side of the
doors so the overlay portion of the door can slip back into the cabinet.
The slot only needs to be as wide as the door is thick (plus a little) and
as high as the amount of overlay (usually 3/8" or 1/2") (plus a little).
This is pretty commonly done by cabinet shops, since most don't like to do
inset doors, but I find the appearance somewhat objectionable.
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