Some times I do to.
Cutting? Scratch a line with a steel hook/barbed object over and over until
the scratch is about 1/16" deep. then break along the line like glass.
Most hardware stores sell a cheep $3-$4 tool that resembles a Pocket knife
for scoring the line.
I also have used a jig saw with a fine tooth blade for nominal 1/10 inch
Masking tape worked also to protect the cut line and prevent melting.
Does anyone know where to get the glue that is used to join the material
- basically a solvent weld. Or what is the solvent used?
If it's quarter inch or more, cut on a table saw with carbide tipped
blade. (you can probably use a blade that isn't carbide tipped, but I
always got cleaner cuts, I don't recall how many teeth I used around
60 I think.
Scoring and breaking is an option, but I've never tried it.
Not sure why you would flip the blade around either. Unless this is
for less than 1/4" plexi.
One note, leave the plastic protector on until you are completely done
working with it. Helps to prevent scratches.
I use a table saw with a fine toothed blade and slow careful feed. Make sure
the edge where the cut is going to be is flat with the saw top so the saw
top can support the Plexiglas where it is being cut. leaving the protective
film on until finished is a very good idea or protect with tape and use tape
to reinforce where you are cutting(cut through the tape both sides).
Need a clear edge with plexiglas? Try heating the edge carefully.......you
don't want to scorch it. Either a torch or heat gun will do the trick. Get
it smooth as you can with your tools, get all splinters off of it and heat
it. With a little practice it will look as clear as the plexiglas ends and
fronts on the refrigerated cases in the grocery store. :-) Hold your heat
away from the sheet and sneak up on it till it clears up, then get the heat
away before the plastic bubbles.
Good luck Lyndell
There are plenty of $4 versions for occasional work out there but if you
score long lines with thicker material you should consider one with a
real handle. I have an old version of the Fletcher model (#5120?) with
replaceable blades - more like $25 it think. Same company that makes
glass cutters, point drivers and the like for real matting and window
work. I've had the thing for over 25 years and it is still fine (no
Also, put your straight edge on the side you want to keep until you get
a decent score line. Go over it many times increasing the depth just a
bit at a time. It should make a sort of squeaking sound and roll off a
bit of the material. This is not like glass where you just scratch it,
it needs some depth or it will not follow the line when you snap it.
I've had good results with a circular saw and a blade meant for
cutting plastics. You also need a straight edge to guide the saw -- I
use the edge of a piece of 1/4" plywood, and clamp it to the piece I'm
p.s. here is the blade I use:
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.