I used a Minwax Red Oak stain on some oak and it didn't turn out red
enough. Attempts to stain over that with Red Mahagony stain, which is
deeper, hasn't deepened the color at all. I'm guess that it's due to the
sealer that Minwax incorporates into the stain. Short of sanding it down,
is there anyway to penetrate the sealer in the first coat? I suppose that
I could use a toner over it...
If you don't test on samples, you are experimenting on your project.
I suggest tossing the Miniwax and don't buy it a again.
If the stain indeed had a sealer it is not likely that you will get a darker
stain by reapplying. You may however find some success if you lightly scuff
sand the finish, give the new coat of stain something to stick to.
AGAIN, don't experiment on your project, try my and others suggestions on
I did test it on scraps and thought that it was deep enough. Upon later
evaluation (on a much larger piece), I determined that it wasn't dark-red
enough. I've tried sanding with a 220 grit and re-applying, but that
didn't do much.
Actually with "penetrating" oil stains, there is a pigment that has to
get into the fibers of he wood. So sanding at 220 after staining
probably just clogged up the pores more. Using your sample, you can
try to apply a dye stain over the pigment stain. Most of these are
water based and since this is likel minwax oil stain, you should use
an alcohol based mix. Transtint can mix with either or if you can find
a pre-mixed NGR (Non Grain Raising) it has used some solvent based mix
that is not water.
A second idea is to tint some shellac with trans tint. Do it about 2
shades lighter than you want when tested on white paper or wood. Then
build a few coats to getr the color you want. Pretty much any film
finish can then go over the shellac (poly lacquer, etc.)
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