Mike Marlow wrote:
<<If it were oil leaching
up through I'd expect a reaction with the primer. I think I'd rough up
affected areas and re-prime. >>
It can be harder to detect in some cases than others. And you know now
it is something on the wood. All you need now if proper prep and you
are on your way.
We run this very problem from time to time when we repainting door
frames (and sometimes the doors themselves) when home owners give the
hinges a little spritz of some lubricant. It gets on the doors and on
the frame, and even when we prep it and prime it, after it sits for a
while until we get to painting that stuff sneaks back out.
Several years ago the combined brain trust on the job noticed this type
of paint problem and we were able to figure out what was going on
because we could see the pattern of bad adhesion exactly lining up with
the hinges. A quick word with the client confirmed this as the
I clean with lacquer thinner as it is extremely/immediately effective
on most lubricants and it flashes off really quick so you can continue
working in minutes. But it is dangerous, and the fumes will knock down
a horse. Imagine your significant other's nail polish fumes times 100
and you have it.
Here's something to consider, and I am just putting this out there
since it works for me. Our local paint rep for my favorite paint
spends a lot of time defending his product, and the problems are almost
always improper application. I had the same adhesion problem on a
door, under a knob and it was a streak that went from knob to slab
(exterior door). He said that the solvent based primers often picked
up enough oil or silicone to contaminate the primer, making hard for
the primer to seal completely but also for paint to stick to the
contaminated primer. (I immediately saw in my mind's eye one of the
guys brushing the primer on, effectively spreading around the
contaminates with his brush). Our primer was hard, but the paint still
pulled away in small streaks while it was drying.
So... since we had nothing to lose, we sanded off the paint/primer back
to good areas. I cleaned it with lacquer thinner, and then we put on
WATER based Kilz 2 as he suggested. Yup, water base. I was really
reluctant as I had never used water based stain killer/primer on
anything. And thankfully it worked fine. I guess the water didn't
have the solvents to activate dissolve whatever it was on the door.
Finshed out the door as usual, and something new learned.
This is our modified method when we have a few hundred feet of moldings
to prime/install/paint: put it all out on the saw horses and shoot it
all with water based Kilz with the airless. If you use the airless,
you will not spread around contaminates (barbecue grease, taco grease
drippings, pizza grease, fried chicken grease, from the delivery/yard
guys, or oil from a careless spraying, etc.) that seem to wind up on
your moldings and material from time to time. I don't like the water
based stuff for actual stain blocking as much as the old solvent based,
but it makes a good primer.
Do what Mike said; sand all of it off the affected areas. Clean with
some kind of solvent, then prime (think about the water based stuff if
you sand back and it still doesn't work) and paint.
Since you have 3 spots to experiment on and rework, just do one, and if
your method works then take the time needed to do all three areas. Let
us know how you are doing.