I am enclosing my 1200 square foot pole barn and plan to use the space
for my wood shop. I covered the concrete floor with a vapor barrier and
3/4 T&G plywood, intending to paint the floor.
I partitioned off about 300 square feet for storage. Needing the space
rather badly, I painted that room, including the floor, and installed
lighting as soon as I could. I've painted the walls and ceiling in the
rest of the building, but I decided to put off painting the floor until
all of the electrical work was done (I'm installing a new service, and
all of the interior wiring is surface mounted in conduit). That work is
It has now been about three months since I painted the storage room. I
used top of the line Sherwin Williams latex products, including a flat
floor paint. I applied the floor paint as directed, in two coats, using
a roller. I'm disappointed with the floor, and now that the time to
paint the rest of the floor is near, I'm wondering what to do.
The floor in the storage room looks okay, but it is still tacky. The
"grab" is very noticeable on items left on the floor for more than a few
minutes, particularly plastic feet (like those on my step ladder).
Things with plastic or rubber feet or wheels left in place for a
substantial amount of time (a week or more) do tend to leave a mark. It
does not look like the paint is lifting. I know that latex paints can
take a long time to fully cure, but three months seems rather long.
Suffice it to say, I am not very enthusiastic about putting my wood
working machinery on a tacky floor.
My primary objective in painting the floor is to make it easier to keep
clean. The bare plywood near the entrance is already starting to look
dirty, and its not going to be easy to clean it, short of sanding.
A friend suggested an epoxy paint, like that sold for concrete garage
and basement floors. But that stuff is really expensive, as are the
two-part urethane products used on high traffic wood floors (like
gymnasiums). If I wanted to spend that much money, I'd go for a hardwood
floor or maybe one of the interlocking plastic tile systems. But I
Quite some time ago I refinished a red oak strip floor with a water
based polyurethane. I don't remember having any issues with that finish
drying - I'm pretty sure I'd remember if it took more than a few days to
dry tack-free. So I am considering putting down the S-W floor paint, and
covering it with a coat or two of water based polyurethane. Does that
seem like a reasonable plan? If not, what are the alternatives?
I have not yet consulted the folks at the S-W store, but I will before
making a final decision.
artg at eclipse dot net
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