I have a friend who wants me to build him another table. The proportions of
the table would amount to a relatively large coffee table. It will actually
be used for writing, but due to a back problem, he is most comfortable
sitting on the floor, which is why the table height will be about 14". We
looked at lumber today, and he is really enamoured with making the top from
padauk and the base from Gaboon ebony. He's aware that just the lumber to
make the base will run somewhere around $800-900. Around here, Gaboon ebony
is $112/BF. My question is: assuming money is not the greatest concern, is
there anything inherently nuts about making a table base from ebony?
My copy of "The Complete Manual of Woodworking" does not denote ebony as an
oily wood, although it does mention that the workability is difficult. Does
anyone have experience working ebony and know the kinds of things to watch
Well, you've got that right. I just added up the numbers, and the table
(not including the two drawers, will be right around 100 lbs. This is for a
60"Lx33"Wx14"H table. When it's all said and done, probably 2/3 of the
weight will be in the top.
My friend isn't what I'd call wealthy, but what he has, he doesn't mind
spending the money on. He has some specific design concerns here, so he's
willing to spend the money to get exactly what he wants.
Here's a few of my secret sources for exotics! I'm sure you can do much
better with about any of these sights. I'd bet by at least 1/2 ! Don't tell
anyone now, this is a secret! lol I've done business with all of them over
the years with much satisfaction.
http://www.gilmerwood.com/ , http://www.anexotichardwood.com/ ,
http://www.eisenbran.com/ , http://www.righteouswoods.net /
just more hot air! 8^)
aka "cuesmith" in yahoo
Sherm Custom Billiard Cues by,
3352 Nine Mile Rd., Cincinnati Ohio 45255
Shop (513)553-2172, Cell (513)509-9152
http://www.shermcue.com Over 20 years experience
almost a decade in "The American Cuemakers Association"
I haven't used a lot of ebony, but I have made a few pens on the lathe.
Ebony doesn't like heat - it will cause it to crack. When I make pens, I
have to go real slow especially with the sanding and drilling to avoid heat
build-up or I'll surely get a cracked pen.
Buy all your ebony at one place and one time. There are sublte shades of
black to dark brown - try to get it all out of the same tree.
Ebony may not be an "oily wood", but paduk sure is. I've had the best luck
Double check your finish on some scrap (always good advice). Some woods
inhibit the drying of oil finishes (I don't know about oil and either ebony
If you've never used Gorilla glue practice a bit first. It will expand
and flow out on your work over a period of perhaps 30 minutes if too
much is applied. In some situations I apply masking tape if I'm
concerned about glue flowing out onto the work.
Remember that the chemical reaction associated with the curing of
urethane requires water. I usually very slightly, emphasis on slightly,
dampen the surfaces to be joined.
Todd Fatheree wrote:
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