This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway. I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts. I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all? I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick resistant, etc) Any recommendations?
Max
"Best" or "medco" brands.
scott
"Max" wrote in news:4bdb50ac$0$24378$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
No specific recommendations, but you may want to watch out for a feature called "Easy Out" or "Call the locksmith (again)." The interior handle turns freely to open the door, but doesn't release the lock or give any indication the door was locked. As soon as you shut the door, you're locked out.
Locks seem to be one of those things that once you hit a certain price point you stop paying for quality and start paying for style. (And you may not get the same quality for a higher style lock.)
Puckdropper
Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.
"Dave Balderstone" wrote
30 seconds instead of 10?
If someone wants in, they're coming in.
Quite right. I only wish to *discourage* them. I have a burglar alarm. Some thieves simply go door to door to see if someone left a door unlocked. My purpose in posting my inquiry was to see if anyone might have some
*worthwhile* contribution. Scott Lurndal did. But thanks for your wisdom. Even if it's in the category of *DUH".Max
Checking them out. Thanks, Scott
Max
No worries. You won't hear from me again.
I Googled that and ended up with "Schlage Max". Looks promising. Thanks.
Max
On Fri, 30 Apr 2010 20:33:46 -0600, the infamous Dave Balderstone scrawled the following:
If not through a door, through a slider. If not a slider, a window. If not a window, they get out their cordless chainsaw (or recip) and make a door in under a minute. Or they just drive through a wall. I've seen all of these methods used in the USA in the past few years.
The sliding glass door was shattered with a 30 pound rock in the middle of the day, in broad daylight in a close neighborhood. None of the retired neighbors (as close as 40' away) heard a thing. Amazing.
-- Losing faith in humanity, one person at a time.
They had a story about bumping locks on the TV news here a while back. They showed that it was quick and easy, but what the police said was the big thing. They said that very few burglars bothered. Kicking the door in is faster.
Bill
Have you rendered your doors and windows resistant to likely levels of force? If not then you need to do that before you have to worry about whether your locks can be picked--most intruders don't pick locks, they break something.
If you're really concerned about bumping then call a locksmith and have him rekey your existing locks with bumproof cylinders. It will likely be cheaper than replacing them all with bumproof locks.
Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life. Think "kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong plate with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws in the hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug
The rule I've heard is that you can get away with a single loud noise. People might say "What's that?" but usually won't investigate. That slider breaking will probably just be a sharp crack sound that could be anything. -- Doug
I *think* I've pretty well covered those categories but I appreciate your emphasis on them. There are other measures I've taken as well; the burglar alarm, exterior lighting, shrubbery kept trimmed. Good relationships with neighbors. A dog (albeit a somewhat friendly one) whose bark is bigger than her bite.
Max
Speaking of "kick resistant", you might get a kick out of this recent story...
To the extent that I could without going to metal doors. They're all solid core doors and fairly "hefty".
I really need to replace the locksets anyway; they're 24 years old, much used and "builder quality". The deadbolts are still in good shape and I thought I would have them re-keyed to accept the same key as the new entry locksets. That would entail getting the same brand as the original so I might go the expense of replacing both.
Max (still pondering)
Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.
nb
Just a couple of thoughts here. If you look at the Medeco or Best brands, you will find that a lockset or deadbolt will run about $200 for each unit. i have installed hundreds of the Medeco, but no Best branded locks. The Medecos are top flight, but they retain a definite commercial appearance as that is their market.
If you go the commercial route, make sure you check out the installation instructions. Most of them are box style locks, and you will either need some real time and patience to install them, or rent/ buy a deep mortise machine. For the most part these are not locks that you remove the old lock and simply screw a new one of them in the old holes.
Through all the years of installing Schlage, Kwickset, Baldwins, Ball, Yale and a slew of Chinese stuff, I like the Schlage for their price point. As I have said before, I used to have a contract with a local company to install their doors, and I have put a lot of Schlage product on. Never had a service or warranty call. Their newer finishes on their polished brass (starting about 5 years ago) hold up great.
The upper line has a good finish on it in polished nickel, oiled bronze, etc., that lasts well. The mechanicals are solid on their hardware. Make sure you get a deadbolt that has a 1" throw.
I put Schlage on my house about 27 years ago, and the front door lock still works smooth as silk. The only maintenance I have ever done on the lock was to take it out and clean it and re-oil it after every ten year mark.
The most important thing with any lock is the installation. I get good service out of the stainless steel generic brands ("Defender", "Titan" and such) for sheds, landlord repairs, etc., because I take the time to adjust the lock to work properly.
A lock is working properly when you can close the door easily with one finger and all you get is a "click". The deadbolt works correctly if you turn the key and can barely feel the plunger assembly move.
The best additional security I do for my clients is to change out the screws in the jamb side of the mortise. Instead of using the 5/8" supplied screws, I get 2 1/2" screws in cadmium to install the strike plates for both locksets and deadbolts. It takes an incredible amount of energy to get those out of the jamb with brute force.
Good luck!
Robert
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