Cutting joists in place can be a very dangerous job with a power tool
of any kind, so be careful. Believe it or not, I've had good success
using a japanese crosscut saw. Its much more suited for the job
because you pull it, instead of push it. It doesn't really take that
long. I had to cut off a 3 x 12 beam sticking out at an angle in a
tight location. I would have killed myself using power. The handsaw
was the answer.
On 2 Sep 2004 14:52:50 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Fred the Red
I use an azebiki for this sort of job, especially lifting floorboards.
It's a short and deep-bellied saw, supposedly for boatbuilding. It's
perfect for sawing out a floorboard though, without cutting into
adjacent boards or the joist beneath.
Last time I took down a ceiling, I did it with a Milwaukee Sawzall. I
was putting in a vaulted ceiling in a room. I wanted to save as much of
each joist as possible (to reuse) which necessitated getting as close to
the wall as possible (an inside job obviously). I could have used a
circ saw I suppose, but there were pesky items such as roof joists that
were in the way.
Just ensure that nothing is going to collapse before venturing out.
This job is what Sawzalls (recipros) were invented for.
Strike the cutline with a chaulkline, etc. Square the line across the
width. For clean cuts, tack/clamp a waste piece of lumber (with a square
end) on the line to be cut. The saw blace will follow the squared end
nicely. Joist hangers have enough bearing area to allow for some
irregularities in the cut IMO.
BTW, putting in those joist hanger nails is what pneumatic palm nailers were
invented for.... :)
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