OT: Cutting Aluminum Stock

I'd like to share what the guy at the local "Saw and Knife" store just told me and ask for your Based on the thickness of the material, 60 TPI is probably the highest you want to go. Above that you run the risk of melting the stock and have it weld back together behind the cut. 80 TPI and above is for very thin material.

Best tooth design is Negative Hook Angle, Triple Chip Grind. Alternate Top Bevel, especially with a Positive hook will dull very, very quickly.

Cut the Angle stock legs down.

Cut the 1" x 1/4" flat stock "standing up" - clamp it so the the 1" surface is against the fence.

According to that info, the $59 Diablo non-ferrous 84 TPI blade that HD carries doesn't sound like what I want to use. The Saw and Knife place has a $79 blade in stock that fits the specs he laid out.

Your thoughts?

Reply to
DerbyDad03
Loading thread data ...

...I use a 60 tooth Tenryu on a 10" Makita chop saw that goes with me to jobs...I cut aluminum regularly (thresholds, shower door kits, etc). It took awhile to "get over" the concept, but now I don't hesitate at all. Steel, though...nah, too many broken carbide tips for me...you'll be fine with a good quality blade...keep the feed rate down...

cg

Reply to
Chasgroh

The POS Porter Cable 10" blade that came with my chop saw won't cut wood worth a damn, but it does fine in my table saw for cutting aluminum channel. It's an intimidating operation if you've never done it before, but easy once you try.

Reply to
Father Haskell

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.