I'd look into fixing myself as others have stated, you can likely use
it just fine and not have any issues. Bearings are cheap. You'd be
paying for new metal on things you already have for a new one - like
the stand, the motor, controls, etc and all you need is a little TLC.
I don't proclaim to be an expert, but perhaps if it really bothers you
you could take something that is known to be flat and put some
sandpaper around it and try to scrape the table flatter. Soon it will
either be flatter, or your arms will be tired and then you will be
more likely to accept the small imperfections w/o as many
For what its worth, my Griz table saw side tables were not flat when I
got it. I'd align the ends to be flush and middle would be high.
After examining it I compromised on the setting, and although not
worthy of anal-retentive examination, it works fine and I've made some
decent looking projects.
Almost certainly the dishing is acceptable. If you continue to have
doubts after making a few test cuts, and if you have a die-maker friend,
have him measure it for you and make his recommendations. The table is a
bearing surface ... having it manually 'spotted in' (by a qualified guy)
would actually help wood move across it more freely than before.
Here's my 'two cents worth'.
Before I did anything else to that machine, I would sharpen the blades,
carefully re-install them (there is a LONG thread in this group about
how to do this at least two different ways), set up the tables as if I
didn't know about the dishing and run a few test cuts. Maybe the
bearings are junk ... maybe they aren't. In any case, unless you are
just itching to own a different jointer, it's worth it to at least give
it a trial and, if you still think they are bad, look into replacing the
old bearings. As others have pointed out, the cost of new bearings is
usually quite manageable.
Want to thank you, DPB and others. I have a line on another
"free" joiner that might be better (model, power,etc) than this one.
If that one is better, I'll do a "restore" on it (not sure if it needs
right now). I did measure the dishing of the one I have. It measures
about .004 - .005
over a 6 - 8" span on either bed about 3 - 4 inches from the
cutter. It is possible, like DPB, you and others have suggested
that it won't be big deal. I'd rather get a new one, but I'm also
like to keep this one, if it were worth it. Sounds like for the
price of bearings (when they wear out) it might be fine.
But to all, thanks again. Bottom line, I might keep it
but it depends on this other joiner. Tho SWMBO told
me to go ahead and buy a new one, I'm going to wait
BTW: Grizzley says:
We appreciate your interest in our jointers. The flatness is .002"
(Asked for their tolerance on their joiners).
NOW the story is out! :)
I don't think there's much chance that will bother significantly for
virtually all cabinet work. Again, on the assumption as you've stated
before that the beds are _overall_ coplanar, then a piece of material
12" long or longer (which is really about the shortest one will normally
consider joining anyway and usually quite a bit longer) will be bridging
those areas most of the time and unless one deliberately pushes down on
the end during the time it is in that low spot (which again, would only
be a few thousandths off perfect anyway) it's still riding on the high
spots. Proper operation of the jointer transfers pressure from the
infeed to the outfeed as the stock passes over the knives, so direct
force on the inward side end of the piece shouldn't be applied anyway.
I repeat -- until you tune this puppy up and use it some, this is all
idle speculation and looking for a justification for the new machine...
If you want it, go for it, but here you're needing a better excuse. (Now
SWMBO may not be quite so savvy so it'll probably work at home). :)
Is that dishing from wear, or from shrinkage, which you
should expect from cheap, unseasoned iron. In the
latter case, I've heard you can pop the tables flat by
laying them upside down over a couple of 2x4s and standing
Got it used from a man who build furniture for a store
he had. Had a full shop and I only wanted the joiner.
He claimed he never used it much. Not much wear
on things but I really can't see how you can pop
Not likely to happen and even more unlikely to result in a more
desirable configuration afterwards than before even if it did...
It is true that rough castings are "aged" before final finishing and
it's possible (even probable?) an inexpensive table didn't have the
benefit of as good a process in manufacturing as did a more expensive
one (and, of course, there are generally reasons why cheaper products
It was pretty neat on the tour of the Powermatic facilities in
McMinnville years ago to see the piles of castings "curing" out in the
yard. Some of them were perhaps 10-15 ft high/deep. I forget now how
long the shop foreman told it was before they were brought in and
finished but it was a couple of years I think...it was new knowledge for
me at the time.
I've read virtually every issue of FWW since about mid-year of V I with
the exception of a couple of years I let subscription lapse back 15
years or so ago. I remember lots of tips & techniques but I don't
recall ever reading of this one there....not to say it wasn't there, but
I surely don't remember it and I've read a lot of 'em... :)
I can't imagine it being feasible at all and certainly not anything
What any given manufacturer is doing now, I don't know--given costs and
competition these days, wouldn't doubt it.
I don't know what PM had for a minimum for sure but I'm still pretty
sure the shop foreman giving me the "cook's tour" said more like two.
The time was longer than that on average, though -- they had something
otoo 3-4 years' of production in the yard of most major castings at the
time. These weren't just little piles of 10-15 castings here and
there--they were _big_ piles of hundreds and multiple piles of 'em!
Mind-boggling to see. This was in about '79/80 or thereabouts. I moved
to TN in '78 and it was a year or so afterwards I bought the PM-66 and
picked it up on site simply for the opportunity to invite myself in for
a tour... :)
That I have no information but my first guess would be "not"...but it is
Of course, but if you look at the ribbing on the bottom of a typical
jointer table, they're ain't enough room between to stand on anything
except rib and it would certainly take more than a couple hundred pounds
to move it.
I peronally think it's wishful thinking at best and just plain hokum at
imo, ymmv, etc.,, ...
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