new roubo esk bench

Oct 29, 2013 17 Replies

Trying to save my back, and make things a little easier while doing dovetails. And it should help with routing and vision too.



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Cheap 2x4's and some pipe clamps that I bought and never used.. been sitting in the plastic the heads came with. Finally found a use for them since Jorgs and Besseys rule...



Cool.

I see your Jorgs are the original old style, have you not broken any yet???

FWIW The Adjustable Clamp company is replacing all of the aluminum bodied "innards" with the cast iron fix, for free.

Nicely done, and good idea.

BTW, really like the shop and the thought that went into the layout. Oughta be in a magazine.

Good backsaver. BTW does your DC keep your jointer cleaned out? Mine kept clogging so I switched back to just a box below the chute.

Nope havne't broken one, but after your story I put some white lube on the screws to prevent it from being a problem.

Thanks, it's always evolving. everytime I find myself too lazy to do something, I make a change to resolve it.

like everyone else I still suffer clutter. If I through something on a table, I just keep moving it... so that's what I try to avoid and organize for... would rather work in the few hours I have each week over finding stuff.

DC, I am using a vac.

mostly I don't clog. Sometimes I am stupid and forget to open the gate... then it's all over.

open the gate, the vac starts up.

The while mechanism cracks, not at the screws.

Which mechanism? I thought you stripped the aluminum threads. You cracked the lower casting? Where?

The aluminum portion that the screw handle threads into breaks but not where it is threaded. One thing that I did discover, if the screw begins to feel rough to turn when applying pressure it is not likely to be the actual threads. The end of the threaded shaft where the large washer is riveted benefits from som sprat libe where the washer is joined at the end of the screw shaft.

If I remember tomorrow I'll take a picture of one of the broken pieces. Jorgensen does not want the broken parts back when the send the cast iron replacement.

Jeez. Some spray lube, not som sprat libe. :-)

OK, here is where the old style aluminum pieces break.

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You have to do your own replacement? Is it easy. Didn't think it would be. Thought it's trapped in.

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Geez... thanks for the heads up. I obviously don't use mine as frequently as you, but I do use them quite a bit.

Gotta look at mine... see if I can see that.

Just checked mine, none show signs yet of stress cracking. Took one apart. Never noticed that it's pretty easy just unscrew the front piece and pull it out that way.

Curious, when they sent you the steel replacement, did they send you the nylon pads that they are putting in the new ones? I assume that pad is somehow to prevent the lock up that you get sometimes if you put the clamp away with the screw all the way backed out and you have no room to loosen it any more... Not real sure.. of maybe it's a shock preventitive from dropping them to the bottom and cracking.

I don't recall if a new nylon piece came with it or not, I'm sure they would send it too if you asked.

Almost stupid simple. You need a small Philips screw driver. Slide the clamp end assembly off of the bar, remove the Philips head screw, slide the little door off and remove the guts.. Swap the wedges and tension spring and reverse the steps to reassemble. The first time will take about 4 minutes. After knowing what has to be done, about 2 minutes. IIRC the replacement part comes with instructions.

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