Need recommendations for chainsaw purchase

It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.

While I want better then homeowner-grade, I don't need professional-forester grade, either. I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:

-- Variable chain oiling. My Crapsman's oiling system consisted of a compartment which dropped oil onto the chain. And when the chain wasn't moving, and went the saw wasn't running, the oil continued to run out. All over the case, all over everything. Piece of shit.

-- User-adjustable carbureutor. I don't want to have to take it to

*&^%ing Sears to make simple adjustments. Piece of shit.

-- Decent chain-tensioning mechanism. The Crapsman consisted of two bolts which could never be tightened enough to keep the bar from moving and loosening the chain. Piece of shit.

-- Upgraded crankshaft. I'll be honest with you, I'm not even completely sure what this means, but I was told to get it! My sharpening guy said "You gotta have a ball-bearing crankshaft. Most don't." Umm...I'm not sure how a crankshaft could *not* have ball bearings, but then again, my Crapsman probably didn't. Piece of shit.

Price range: $300 - $400.

Bar length: 18". If 18" isn't long enough to cut through it, then I'm not man enough to do it myself. Professional time at that point.

Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.

Reply to
wood_newbie
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have a stihl and love it.

Reply to
James

Find a repair place close to your home. Find out if the carry parts for a Husqvarna or a Stihl. You will be happy with either as long as you can get parts and repairs. I have had my Husqvarna for 7 years and have never needed a part or repair. I have a service center 3 miles from my house. Last time I was in the Sears service center I witnessed 3 angry customers in 30 minutes!

AZCRAIG

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Reply to
cm

Stihl has a real handy system on some models...built in fold down crank, no tools necessary, works well.

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Reply to
dadiOH

In your price range is the Stihl "Farm Boss". I have one and have used it extensively. Learning how to sharpen a chainsaw chain was a real godsend though. I use a dremel to do it, takes maybe 5 minutes and another 5 to file the rakers by hand. I think mine has an 18" bar but can handle longer if needed.

Reply to
Andrew Williams

Popular Mechanics did a review recently, and they liked the Stihl in the $300 range...

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course you could always check here for an alternative to a gas burner...
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Reply to
Jay Pique

You should be able to get a lot of chainsaw for that money. Stihl or Husqvarna--it's a coin toss. Pick whichever one has the closest dealer. I am fortunate enough to have one of each in my town, so I mix up my choices on two stroke tools.

Jonsered is also supposed to be very good, but unless you live in logging country, it's going to be hard to find a dealer.

I wouldn't give a tinker's dam for any of the other brands.

Reply to
LRod

About a year ago a massive limb feel from a big oak in my yard - imagine an oak with a base width of almost 7 feet. The *branch* that fell was 33" in diameter. Anyway, when I was younger I rode Moto-X and had a Husky so I was dead set on a Husky for a saw. I got the 357XP and what a saw.....love it. I would suggest to you the 455 Rancher. I tried this saw in my search and it is a great saw for the money.

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Luck/Work Safe

Reply to
Joe Bemier

Our local dealer sells Stihl and Husqvarna. He said the Stihl as a slightly better record for problems, but are good workers.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

Ditto the Stihl. Tough saw.

Reply to
Woodhead

Are you after a saw or just whining about the Craftsman one you have?

Can't speak to a Stihl which I'm sure is a great saw. I own a Husqvarna Rancher 55 and I can tell you it kicks butt and takes names. Its the very best I've ever owned and wouldn't buy anything else. Has the 18" bar (also available in a 20") and fits in your price range. FWIW, Sears carries it, so does Lowe's, along with all the accessories and spare bars, chains etc. Prices for spare parts are actually civil too!

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?action=frameSet&url=lowes.husqvarna.com/chainsaws.htmGrandpa John

Reply to
John DeBoo

Reply to
Phisherman

I've been a logger for 38 plus years and although i ran jonsreds for most of those my saw of choice in the later years has gone to husqvarna. the 455 rancher will do what you want to do and will last for years with a little care. sells for $339.95 w/ 20" bar and chain at

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there a great logger supply outfit at a good price. ross
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Reply to
Ross Hebeisen

Absolutely loved the last line on the home page of your website. Tell's a potential customer all they need to know about you and your business. Nice touch.

Thanks to you and everyone else for the good advice.

Reply to
wood_newbie

I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is too much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt. 18" should be just about right. The MS250 would keep the powerhead around

10 pounds and it will run a 16" or 18" bar.
Reply to
Thomas Kendrick

Not having much experience with chain saws, does the option exist to remove a longer bar (at one's discretion) and put on a shorter bar and chain?

Reply to
Upscale

thanks so much for the compliment on the website. so little means so much. thank you ross

Reply to
Ross Hebeisen

I third it. I Had an 031 that I used for 5-6 cords a year for 7-8 years back in my younger days. It never let me down, with a 16" bar it would drop a 32" tree. The perfect saw up until I moved to Houston and had it stolen. Mom still has my Dad's 028, and I use it sometimes when I go to visit. That saw is at least 20 years old.

Reply to
Roy

Intersting to hear you say that. I've never run a 20 for any length of time...the only saw I have any real experience with is my (former) 18. I always felt comfortable with it...that if I started getting much longer it would be more difficult to keep the chain off the ground.

I go snow/winter camping all the time, and I always take the saw to make wood-gathering go more quickly. (The shear volume of wood you need when the nighttime temps are in the singles is kind of shocking.) I'm looking for dry wood, so I'm obviously not felling anything. (Plus it's not always that clear what's dead and what's not in mid-January...)

I had thought about going with a 20 if the price/specs were in line, but you're post kind of confirmed my suspicions. I don't need length...I need control. I may even go with a 16 if I get a good deal on it.

Thanks for your experience.

Reply to
wood_newbie

Usually. Most saws come with a recommendation for bar length and an acceptable range. So long as you're within the mfgrs range, you should be good.

Depending on the bars, though, it can get expensive. A 16" bar/chain won't break your bank, but a 24" can start to cost.

Reply to
wood_newbie

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