I'm not sure where to go for this kind of question, but I saw a picture of
such a thing in a Popular Mechanic magazine a while back. I'm talking about
a straight ladder, with a couple of arms going to the roof, so I want crunch
the rain gutter. I either like to buy such a thing or maybe make one, if I
could get a drawing some place. You guys are so great here, I got lots of
help before, so I'm hoping for the best again........Opa Peter
They have them at most any place that sells ladders. If
the ladder support needs to move the ladder back only a foot
or so, you can just bolt the pieces of plywood to the latter
at the appropriate distance from the end. If you need to
hold the ladder farther out, then you need a wider stance,
which probably requires bent metal. Actually the supports
don't go to the roof, they rest on the wall.
This can be as simple as:
1) a circa 5' (longer is better, within reason) chunk of 2x6 (as a horizontal
'bumper', wide face against the house, possibly with carpet on the face
2) a couple of appropriate lengths perpendicular to it, as 'stand offs',
3) a 'spreader to hold the end of the stand-offs apart at the rung.
4) an 'x-brace' to hold the stand-offs square to the bumper, and eliminate
any lateral sway.
5) a hole/slot towards the back of each brace, that fits over a rung on
the ladder. (right and left sides of the same rung)
6) a _pulley_ hung from the rung _above_ where the bumper attaches.
7) lightweight rope, from the bumper, through the pulley, and down
to the ground.
A) extend ladder to appropriate hight. possibly measuring against the
structure to do so. noting where gutters would contact.
B) return ladder to ground,
C) put pulley on 1st rung below where gutters 'hit'
D) put bumper on ring below pulley.
E) thread rope.
F) Raise ladder upright.
G) pull on rope, to extend bumper to horizontal
H) GENTLY let ladder lean against building.
*IF*PARANOID, one builds the bumper/brace to hook over two adjacent vertical
rungs, at a fixed angle from the ladder. then there's no risk of the bumper
'pivoting'/'collapsing' while in use.
The amount of 'stand-off' from structure to clearing the gutters *does*
vary, _significantly_, by climate/locale, _and_ the design of the building.
But, you go up the side of the building, to below the roof-line, _once_,
take a measurement, and then build the jig appropriately.
Man are you good with words, I wish I was that smart. Now I got to wait
until the morning, so I can follow and digest the information. Honestly, my
hat off to you........Thanks, I will be back, got to hit the
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