I just picked up a used, but in excellent condition, 14" Delta 28-299. And
I'd like to get two, three, maybe four blades to work with.
What blades and sizes are most useful? Good deals? Any insight here would
Highland hardware sells Woodslicer blades (and others) at
Suffolk Machinery sell Timberwolf blades at http://www.suffolkmachinery.com /
Either are very good.
For resawing, you want either a 1/2" 3 tpi for resawing. Some may suggest
a 3/4" and that is better if your saw can tension it. Most 14" can't even
if they can hold it.
For general purpose, get a 3/8" with around 6tpi.
For scroll work, tight curves, get a 3/16" or even a 1/8" if you plan on
doing really tight curves.
The majority here like Timberwolf blades. I do to but my favorites are
Olsen All-Pro for the smaller blades an an MVP for the 1/2" resaw blade.
The HH Wood slicer I tried was the predecessor to the current and
needed SUPER tension and there was a thread about a craze of super
tension and bearing replacements at the time. I tried the low tension
Timberwolf and haven't looked back.
On Sat, 01 May 2004 17:28:44 GMT, email@example.com (Bruce) wrote:
==================================Timberwolf blades without a doubt....HOWEVER I honestly would
NOT purchase 3 or 4 blades this soon after buying... Wait until you
find a need for a "special blade" 95 percent of my work is handled
with a 1/4 in 6 tpi blade... If you anticipate doing a lot or
resaawing then a blade for that purpose is in order...so at most I
would tell you to buy maybe 2 blades....
Now I will go read what the other replies stated....
Another Bob agrees with Bob, what a surprize! Call 1-800-234-saws and
tel them what you have and want to do and then buy what they suggest.
They're the subject matter experts!
On Sun, 02 May 2004 10:18:54 -0400, Bob G.
The problem with waiting till you need it is that you don't have it when
you need it and will have to wait a few days while you order. The problem
with a 1/4" blade is that for the large sweeping curved type deals, it
won't cut a smooth arc. I like a 3/8" for general purpose.
As a starter set: A 1/2", 3 or 4 TPI blade for resawing, a 3/8", 6
TPI for general work, and a 1/4", 14 TPI for fine work.
As far as brands go, a lot of folks here like the Timberwolf blades,
but I find them unimpressive. (When FWW tested bandsaw blades a few
months ago, they didn't think too much of them either.)
For everyday use, I like the Olson FB blades. Performance comparable
to Timberwolf or even a bit better, at about half the cost.
For critical resawing, where you're producing thin slices and looking
for a near-perfect surface, nothing comes close to the Highland
Hardware Woodslicer. But it's not cheap -- about twice the price of a
Timberwolf, four times the price of an Olson FB.
I also recommend that you pick up a copy of Mark Duginske's Bandsaw
Handbook. It's got a ton of information about tying and using your
saw, including a lot of information on how to choose blades.
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net
Two weeks ago and I ordered TWO Timberwolf blades for my new Grizzly G0555.
One of them is 1/2", 0.025 4 TPI. Anyway, the results were very disappointing.
Timberwolf sends me a new replacement. The blade have a regular clicking sound
and I am trying to determine whether it is the bandsaw problems or blade.
Grizzly bandsaw's riser block does not fit properly even after I have added a
1/16" shim at the lower wheel.
I am still waiting for Grizzly to come back to me and help me to solve the
Shall I buy Woodslicer blades?
On Mon, 03 May 2004 02:59:36 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Bruce) wrote:
Two problems with the riser block.
A) Riser Block lower surface's dowel pins fit perfectly. The upper
surface's dowel pins fit one hole and the other hole are oversize. The top
section casting can move sideways due to the oversize hole.
C) Riser Block lower mating surface match the lower casting. Top
mating surface does not match the top section casting, it is off set by
approximately 3/32" backward. Even after I compensate it by adding 1/16" shim on
the lower wheel, you can still see the blade move forward and backward.
On Mon, 03 May 2004 04:04:55 GMT, email@example.com (Bruce) wrote:
The riser block and/or top section moves very much slightly when I place my hand
to feel it (with the clicking sound). And if I tighten any more I would have
strip the nut as the washer show sign of over toque.
The blade moves forward/backward due to two causes: Both top and lower alum.
wheels are warp and the new Suffolk blade misaligned at the welded section.
The wheels are not coplanar, about 3/32" out, I managed to add a 1/16" shim to
the lower wheel and bring the wheels to coplanar.
Coming to two weeks and STILL waiting for Grizzly to come up with a solution or
replacement top wheel. EVERYONE, here praised Grizzly for their EXCELLENT
customer services????? Even Suffolk have send their replacement blade (rather
reluctantly, I must add by the tone of the voice).
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