Probably even one of the better benchtop mortisers would be no more
The picture looks as if the base/attachment is quite solid and the
moving bed would be nice but I'd have to see one in action to decide
about how well it would actually be to use, I think.
Yes Duane, info from someone who had actually used one would have been
Visiting a dealer who has a mortising attachment to try is out of the
question. The nearest is a 12 hour ferry trip or an hours flight away and
very expensive. Thus my request for information from the web.
I already have a thickness planer and a bench top mortiser but could do with
the extra space the option would allow.
Did I understand there's a right-angle gearing to drive a mortising
Do you know if the depth is tied to the planer head drive as it seems?
If so, I think it would be quite awkward...
But, I'm kinda' guessing as I couldn't really tell from the picture I
Have you tried one of those slot mortsers George? Any information you can
give would be great. I don't want to buy one and then wish I had kept the
I would visit a dealer to see for myself, but living in a remote location
means the cost of going to see one is much more than the cost of buying it.
Remove oxo from my address if you want to reply personally.
Keep the bench. It makes square holes. The slot types are certainly precise
at edge slots, and lend themselves well to hold-downs and such for longer
pieces, but with a bit of jigging and a good router, everything is possible
without them. I think the persistence of the slot morticer may have more to
do with the short arbors on tablesaws than absolute utility in the age of
good plunge routers. Folks here have dado sets which plow grooves and make
square tenons easily.
If you're driving, look at a good all-purpose router. Set it up
table-capable, and use it either way. If you have to mortice ends on long
stock, make a jig. I've used 'em when I had to stand on a stool to get my
eyes above the router. Even slotting, what the machine is best at, can be
accomplished fairly well with a tall-fenced tabled router and a couple of
featherboards. Larger stock can be handled by a three-point jig.
Thanks George, I have now decided to forget the slot mortiser. Too many
disadvantages and not much space saving it seems.
Also thanks to all those who responded. If nothing else a few more
woodworkers over the pond are now aware of slot mortisers.
The Robland X-31 has an opposing V chuck on the end ot the
jointer/planer cutter head and an XYZ table that attaches
to the side of the unit. The XYZ table has Left/Right stops
to set the ends of the mortise and a depth stop as well.
The planer/jointer has its own 3 hp TEFC motor that
turns the head at 5000 rpms - low enough to do the
job but not burn the mortise.
If you want to see a great example of how to build a
four panel door using all five functions of the X31
with plenty of loose tenon joints in mortises cut on
the horizontal mortising attachment. Click on
"continue" at the bottom of each page to get o the
next page. This guy is very methodical and there
are many ideas shown which will probably come
in handy for your future projects.
And here's a great jig to enhance the slot mortiser's capabilities.
Note that the mortising bits for these units are much longer
than a router bit.
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