To me it matters what I'm making and what it will be used for. Low-wear pieces in an early style will not be 'right' in poly so they usually get oil and shellac and wax. It would be like somebody saying that they are building an exact copy of a 1921 auto and then installing a new turbocharged 4-cylinder because it is both easier and more efficient. Yes, it would be, but it would not be true to the original intent.
Poly alone has a place but not for fine furniture. Kids bookcase, toys, etc.
A few years back someone posted a method to use poly and make it look like a quality finish. I've done it and it works well.
Apply a thinned coat Apply two mre full strength sanding between Wait four weeks for it to cure Wet sand with 320 grit Rub with pumice Rub with rottenstone Wax
To me, a lot of the quality of "do I want to have to do this again" depends upon the amount of prep to get to that point and the look that I'm trying to achieve on that particular piece.
Poly, to have it stick well and look good (Adhesion, dust free, etc.) can generally require quite a bit of work, and then, if you REALLY like a Poly, then you may REALLY like a poly high gloss, too... in which case it requires a frequent touch up.
My answer to your question is durability. But, I choose my coats for RELATIVE durability:
If it's a bar top, epoxy; Floor, I go with poly or lacquer if it's a 'dressed down' or a traditional home. Most of my typical, 'not much water contact' furniture, I do in Watco or Formsby Tung Oil Finish-- yes, I said the finish. It's a little harder, and buffs beautifully. Low sheen for me on these pieces.
Wall paneling (or trim, or natural wainscot) can't look any better, in my opinion, than sealed with with a shellac coat-- amber if a traditional look is desired or it's an old home. Conversely, a clear with light aniline dye tint if not.
I don't have to say this, but obviously Mineral Oil on high-traffic, food contact pieces... again simply for the ease and frequency of recoats as much as for the edible/potable nature of the coat.
All of the finishes I mentioned, with the exception of the epoxy bar top, are MUCH easier to prep and to reapply, with varying levels of necessity depending on the workpiece, than a Poly.
This method sound interesting. Would you happen to have any photos of a piece finished in this method?
I'm not partial to poly. I've used it a fair amount, especially on desks that get a lot of use. I currently have a few polyed pieces and, over time, they don't look as good anymore. Poly is also rather annoying to get right. I've fought many times with dust and bubbles.
The 'thinned' coat in your method has me thinking. I may have to try this, at least on a test piece, to see how it comes out in comparison to the other things I have polyed. Thanks for the tip.
not sure about the four week wait and that sounds like it is based on local climate or something but not always required but seems too long for poly or at least the poly i use
i guess wax gives a three dimensional look and feel and is probably the key giving poly a different look
Drying occurs when solvents evaporate from the surface of the film, leaving it tack free. There are four important elements of proper drying: temperature, humidity, film thickness and airflow. Temperature affects viscosity, which contributes to film thickness. Humidity affects the evaporation rate of the solvents. The amount of airflow determines how much oxygen will crosslink with the finish to initiate curing. High temperatures, low humidity, thin film thickness and adequate airflow will all expedite dry time and cure time. If these elements are not maintained properly, the finish could dry too quickly. Curing occurs when residual solvents leave the film and it begins crosslinking with oxygen in the air to develop strength, toughness, abrasion resistance and chemical resistance. Although most finishes reach 90% cure in seven days, full cure takes up to thirty days.
I've used 1/3 semi-gloss poly, 1/3 tung oil, and 1/3 BLO with good results. It offers good protection without the plastic look. But these days I most definitely prefer shellac and wax, even if it means upkeep. It's a beautiful, deep finish.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.