Doing mitered half laps is HARD!
My new train table for my son has three new design features for me. Mitered half laps, curved apron, and loose M&T's.
Finished it, now applying finish. Will post pics soon if your interested.
If you mean where one piece is beveled on the end, but half-lapped square, and the other cut square and the lap mitered, I've done a a mess of them as picture/mirror frames. It's picky.
That's the one.
I needed to make a rabbet inside a frame that holds the train table top. I thought miters would be the best way because you can do through rabbets before assembly (regular miters are to weak for this project, end grain to end grain). The other option was regular half laps than rabbet with a router. This would of given me rounded corners that I would have to chisel out, didn't want to do that. Im happy with the way 3 of the four mitered half laps came out. 3 out of 4 isn't bad I guess...
I've never done one. I looked on the web to make sure I was thinking of the same joint you are discussing. I guessed correctly. I'm now wondering if they could be made with an accurate miter gauge setting using a dado blade for the first piece. Then cut the miter on the second piece and then run it on the TS with the miter gauge and dado blade, making sure the height of the blade is dead on correct. Slide work piece and repeat as necessary.
Did you use a router?
Dave
stoutman wrote:
Actually, doing mitered half laps is a breeze with a RA saw and a dado set
John
I did them on the router table using two different jigs and a pattern bit. I tried them on the table saw with dado blade on scrap wood. My crappy dado blade doesn't produce a clean cut so I went with the router.
I did that, but made the first cross-cut, lap-depth with the saw, both for the miter cut and the straight cut, then finished cleaning out the rest with the router.
"stoutman" wrote in news:sdkte.38388$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.southeast.rr.com:
You bet. Let's see the pics. Sounds like a beauty.
Instead of doing it on the table, wouldn't it be easier to do this one with the router in hand? I'd get a piece of sacrificial stock with a
45 degree angle cut into it that you can slide the piece to be routed into (to support the router base as you work) and use a couple of c-clamps to make a temporary fence for the router base to reference itself against. The idea one of the others had about cutting the egde of the joint to the correct depth on the TS before routing would work as well as the temporary fence for this, if you prefer to free-hand it.Posted in ABPW.
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