I heard about this saw blade on my local (Wisconsin) public radio program and looked it up on line. Here's a demo:
- posted
14 years ago
I heard about this saw blade on my local (Wisconsin) public radio program and looked it up on line. Here's a demo:
You can get an even smaller kerf by going with an ultra thin kerf cordless circular saw blade. As long as you don't need the full depth of cut, it's *way* cheaper than this special blade.
Chris
I'd say very pricey...but it's got a 90 day money back guarantee.
I'd still wait for a sale.
R
I've got a Forrest thin kerf blade. I found that depending on the grain/figure of the wood the blade would sometime deflect slightly. I ended up also buying a Forrest full kerf blade. I can only imagine what a 1/16" kerfed blade might do.
Or - if you can get by on a .079 kerf - you can get a Tenryu for less than a third of that. I used to have one some years ago, nice blade. I still have a 7 1/4" Tenryu which has a 1/16" kerf Less than $25); handier than a router or long, narrow grooves.
Thin blades are OK for cutting veneer and cuts that you are not concerned about. Thin kerf blades flex and with flex you get poorer cuts more often than with a regular kerf bald.. I have been down that route and will stay with the regular kerf blades.
As far as saving wood,,, unless you are cutting a lot of thin strips or veneer you are not going to benefit. When was the last time you wished you had a board that was 3/64" wider? ;~)
Also, the guy talking in the video noticed and pointed out tooth marks on the wood he just cut.... that is a problem with thin kerf blades because the flex and deflect that you don't see as often with regular kerf blades.
Think band saw blade.
My guess is that it would deflect too if you pushed it wrong. I talked to someone at the company (just because I was curious) -- the blade is made of a high speed steel (recycled material - "green" advertising) with carbide tips.
last week. no matter how much i cut off, it was still too short.
unclear if they all have carbide tips. Also, it seems that you'd probably want to use a blade stabilizer for the 10" version. I know that Tenryu makes good circular saw blades for dry cutting steel and they make quality products..
Wow, we must have seen different videos! The guy I saw actually liked the cut from the blade he was using.
Isn't a band saw blade supported both below and above the cut, preventing horizontal deflection? The table saw blade is not similarly supported.
scott
I probably should have clarified, band saw blade quality of cut. Tooth marks.
My guess is that it would deflect too if you pushed it wrong. I talked to someone at the company (just because I was curious) -- the blade is made of a high speed steel (recycled material - "green" advertising) with carbide tips.
Recycled/green would explain the exaggerated cost.
Wow, we must have seen different videos! The guy I saw actually liked the cut from the blade he was using.
I think we saw the same, 3 guys? Watch again, the guy doing most of the talking and making the cut points out tooth marks, IIRC he refers to them as kerf or cut marks. And yes he did seem happy, I used to be happy with a fast cut and putting up with having to address the tooth marks later on. Now however tooth marks are mostly a distant memory. I'd much rather make a slightly slower cut and be done with the edge. I suspect the guy in the video has not yet gotten used to consistently having a smooth cut from his saw.
From their web site,,,,
If I were in business manufacturing saw blades I certainly WOULD NOT have the above link on my web site. Hummmmm.
Oh, that's just a tradition up here. We cut up sticks and put them in the mud.
If you go to the web site:
Max
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